Toyota: What's the difference between Toyota, Nissan, and Honda antifreeze?

John D. wrote: 

UNLESS the mechanical seal is faulty, coolant does not come in
contact with the shaft bearings!

--

~~Philip

"Don't let school get in the way of
your education" Dennis Pragar

On 23 Aug 2003 19:28:19 -0700, com (John D.) wrote:
 

Here's the short story:

Japanese manufacturers typically recommend no silicate antifreeze.
Apparently, as the story goes, the silicate can wear the seals and
cause leaks in the WP. Maybe they just make lousy seals, I dunno.

Prestone green is *high* silicate. It is the *opposite* of what you
should put in a Japanese car. Prestone introduced their high
silicate blend in the 70's as a cure for corrosion problems. More
silicates, less corrosion. I would not use Prestone in Jap car.

Valvoline sells a coolant called G05. It is _low_ silicate (not
silicate free) and has other corrosion protection chemicals.
It has been in use in Europe by Mercedes, Saab, and others for
many years and has proven out well. Ford and Chrysler have
recently adopted it as their new coolant.

GM has been using Dexcool by Havoline (Texaco). There have been
some serious issues with Dexcool. It's apparently fine in a
perfectly clean system and goes the 5 years. However, it there
is _any_ contamination, you get corrosion in new cars - some only
2 years old. Contamination includes leftovers from GM's "stop
leak" that is run through at the factory (in new cars, imagine
that) and from air (yes, normal air) in the system. There are lots
of claims and suits against GM. Some folks claim that the Dexcool
product it self is contaminated out of the barrel. FWIW, GM is
rumored to be changing to another manufacturer this year.
It is also silicate *free* but has issues. Do a web search if you
like.


So, what to use ? Use Jap coolant to be safest. Use G05 with a
simple water flush to play it a little riskier with a low silicate
product. Use a Dexcool product with a serious flush if you want to
go higher on the risk scale with a no silicate. (Personally, if I
was bent on _no_ silicates, I'd just buy Nissan coolant and avoid
the risk of Dexcool like coolants)

Bob

I have a 1987 Mazda 323, and just this year, sold a 1985 Civic. Both
had/have about 160k miles each, and both have their original waterpump,
heater core, and radiator. Passages in the radiators were in almost like
new condition.

Coolant used was/is conventional "green stuff" Prestone, Peak, NAPA,
etc..... mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Although I do use Toyota Coolant
in my 94 Camry (employee discount), I used Havoline Dex-Cool in there for
80k miles prior with no problems.

"John D." <com> wrote in message
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Then please explain what the problem is, as many people say, with
coolants that have those chemicals in them? Or is that just another
urban legend.

John D.



"Philip®" <net> wrote in message news:<WDV1b.1031$news.pas.earthlink.net>... 

It's not quite as simple as that. The origins of the variations between the
Japanese and European cars can be traced to water quality. In Europe the
water is predominantly hard. As a result of this, they typically have a
formualtion from the factory that can accomodate some "hard" water without
degrading the corrosion inhibitors too much. The Japanese formulation does
not accomodate hard water and distilled water is recommended.
The problem with Dexcool is not a "clean" system issue, it is a
precontamination with silicate issue. Dexcool works by allowing an initial
corrosion that subsequently protects.Dexcool takes quite a bit of driving to
become effective - approx 1,000 miles. Silicate works by deposition over
the metal and plating - This process is a much more aggressive one, and is
instant. When you convert and try to flush out silicates, you will not get
all of it out. If the silicates are still active and plated on the metal ,
you get silicates actually neutralizing the Dexcool. Thus you get no Dexcool
protection and then the silicates are worn out. This leads to no corrosion
protection - on one flush and refill.

If you convert to Dexcool, do flush, install Dexcool. Drive 1,000 miles,
Flush again and install Dexcool. You will find that many people who have
problems with Dexcool after a conversion did not flush a second time and
reinstalled. A single flush will not do it. Also once some silicates get in
there, you ideally need to flush twice again.

The problem with silicates is that they rapidly deplete and must be flushed
out periodically or they gel and cause problems. Honda coolant is supposed
to have "organic" protection which I suspect is Dexcool related. The big
difference is that they don't claim long life and Dexcool should also be
treated similarly.

Many of Dexcool problems start from post conversion contamination by people
just adding "antifreeze". Consumers and gas attendants need to be told that
the two types of antifreeze cannot be mixed. Colors are also meaningless.
"'nuther Bob" <com> wrote in message
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That's good to hear...I don't buy the $14.99/gallon Nissan anti-freeze.

John D.




"Platil" <com> wrote in message news:<1X22b.244690$uu5.50525@sccrnsc04>... 

Tegger® wrote: 

Maybe silicates contribute to wear and then maybe a film of silicate
acts as a "lubricant" in the stricter sense of the word. Hmmmm.!
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

Ran a 1988 Mazda 626 2.0 for 200,000kms with standard green antifreeze and
RMI-25, cooling system is in impeccable condition - now with 350,000kms on
it the old 626 is still trucking on, only work its had done is a FUEL pump.


Nick.

John D. <com> wrote in message
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