Toyota: treating stone chips

Artur Roytburg <ca> wrote in message
news:supernews.com... 

There are products that convert rust to a good paint base, such as Duro
Extend. Just apply a dab to each chip and the rust is converted to a black
polymer substance.

Dave M.

On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 12:00:43 GMT, someone who calls themselves
"Tegger®" <invalid> wrote:

 

If you want a closer color match than the touch-up bottle (and a lot
easier to dip the brush) you can go to the auto paint counter at a
good local parts shop (NAPA San Fernando does this) and have them mix
a half-pint of the exact paint for your car, including an allowance in
the mix for the fading which the touch-up bottle doesn't have.

They also have the right primers and thinners for it. Put a
tablespoon of paint in a small stainless bowl (restaurant supply) and
add a few drops of thinner to get the consistency you want.

Then you find someone with an airbrush to do the top-coat to get the
patched spot a little less obvious, make the mask an inch bigger than
the nick and fade the new paint in a half-inch or so over the old
paint. I suppose you could also airbrush some clearcoat on, too.

No matter what you do the patch will never really disappear (unless
you have a body shop paint the whole panel, and that's bucks), but if
you back off 5 feet and don't notice it, it's a good job.

--<< Bruce >>--
--
Bruce L. Bergman, POB 394, Woodland Hills CA 91365, USA
Electrician, Westend Electric (#726700) Agoura, CA

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Bruce L. Bergman <INVALID> painstakingly
pecked in news:com:
 


<snip involved but surely effective steps>

Bruce, you clearly do not have the number of stone chips we have in snow
country. I've driven your roads. Due to the fact that you do not lay down
millions of tons of sand and gravel on your roads every winter, your roads
are amazingly free of such grit. There's some, but it's NOT the same.

I touch up at least a dozen chips every few months, even in the summer.
After the first dozen or so, you just either give up entirely or do it the
quick-and-dirty way just to get it over with.

The hod on my Integra was blasted woith so many chips my first year of
ownership, I threw up my hands and gave up on it, which was not wise.
Eventually I had a lot of rust. Got the hood repainted, then started taking
care of it. What a pain.


--
TeGGeR®

Bruce L. Bergman <INVALID> painstakingly
pecked in news:com:
 


<snip involved but surely effective steps>

Bruce, you clearly do not have the number of stone chips we have in snow
country. I've driven your roads. Due to the fact that you do not lay down
millions of tons of sand and gravel on your roads every winter, your roads
are amazingly free of such grit. There's some, but it's NOT the same.

I touch up at least a dozen chips every few months, even in the summer.
After the first dozen or so, you just either give up entirely or do it the
quick-and-dirty way just to get it over with.

The hod on my Integra was blasted woith so many chips my first year of
ownership, I threw up my hands and gave up on it, which was not wise.
Eventually I had a lot of rust. Got the hood repainted, then started taking
care of it. What a pain.


--
TeGGeR®

I have some paint chips on my white Camry and I've been doing the
following to fix them.

1. Get a 3M Rust Avenger (Pep Boys carries it for sure).

It a marker like thing that releases a grey fluid that converts the rust
into something non-destructive (forgot the chemical composition).

When you're done avenging, the spots will look black.

I don't suggest a Dremel as the Rust Avenger will do a good job without
you risking further damage.

2. Get some Plasti-Kote touch-up paint for your body color (they made
the Toyota Super White color for my car which is perfect).

3. Get some Mothers "CALIFORNIA GOLD® PAINT CHIP REPAIR"

(First item you see on this link:

http://www.mothers.com/products/productcatalog/paintprod.html

)

You avenge the spots that are rusty, then dab some touch-up paint, then
use the Mothers to rub the excess that inevitably forms on the paint
off.

You repeat the touch-up and Mothers steps multiple times until you have
paint that's nearly level with the body paint, then maybe do clear coat
and use the Mothers stuff as the final pass.

I suggest letting the touch-up paint dry for 20-40 minutes, before using
the Mothers stuff.

This is a *VERY* time consuming process if you want it to come out well.
The Mothers stuff works really well for small chips but for larger ones
you end up seeing the edges some. For black color paint, you'll be OK
because it's hard to see the eges. With white, it's pretty easy to
spot...

Good luck!

John.

I meant to add in my previous post, that you should make sure the areas
you want to touch up are very clean after the avenging process. I
suggest you use a lint free cloth with some isopropyl alcohol to clean
them up.

John.