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Toyota Camry: Throttle Body

  1. #1
    TObject
    Guest

    Throttle Body

    I have a '98 Camry, 4-cyl.

    Sometimes it doesn't want to start. When it happens, if I have somebody
    start it while I lightly tap on the throttle body with a screwdriver handle,
    it starts. I clean the throttle body with air intake cleaner, and it works
    fine for a while (about a month or so), then it goes back to not starting.

    I am a bit tiered of cleaning. Who makes replacement throttle bodies
    for this car, and where can I buy one.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks!



  2. #2
    IceMan
    Guest

    Re: Throttle Body

    If you would like genuine Toyota parts then consider
    http://www.toyota-parts-dealer.com/
    I found my local Toyota dealers to be more expensive.


    "TObject" <com> wrote in message
    news:32ee3$400edefa$4069520e$meganewsservers.com.. . 
    handle, 



  3. #3
    JerryR
    Guest

    Re: Throttle Body

    "TObject" <com> wrote in message news:<32ee3$400edefa$4069520e$meganewsservers.com> ... 

    Don't be so quick to replace the throttle body.
    I've had a very similar situation with my '97 camry, the car would
    start but die immediatly, or start and idle very slow. Hitting the
    throttle body lightly with a screwdriver handle cleared the problem
    temporarily.
    I suspected 2 systems:
    1.) the EGR valve stuck open(Or part open).
    2.) the Idle Air Control Valve.
    I was able to rule out the EGR valve.
    I posted the problem on http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Toyotas_only,
    and followed the response-clean the Idle Air Control valve.
    To access the valve, Remove the air intake hose from the throttle
    body, you will see a square opening(hole) in front of the throttle
    plate, Spray your intake cleaner into it, hopfully this will free it
    up. it worked for me.
    Hope this helps.
    JerryR

  4. #4
    Daniel
    Guest

    Re: Throttle Body

    "TObject" <com> wrote in message news:<32ee3$400edefa$4069520e$meganewsservers.com> ... 

    Try this:
    Let the engine idle when cold and the throttle body has not been
    tapped, so the idle is not right.
    This means the idle air control valve is sticking.
    Spray your cleaner into the rectangular hole near the bottom just
    right of center, while keeping the engine running by moving the
    butterfly valve at the throttle body.
    This should last a lot longer and prove satisfactory.
    If not, you want to replace the IAC valve, not the entire throttle
    body, but if it has not been harmed by "tapping" on it, cleaning
    should work.
    You also might want to check out:
    http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/si1ti.htm
    reading the part about helping clean emission control components, and
    make sure the PCV valve is clear.
    Supposedly, oil fumes venting from the crankcase to the throttle body,
    help clog the idle control valve, so even if you replace it with new,
    the problem can return later.
    Mine was starting to need cleaning pretty regularly, too, but after
    cleaning while idling, (so far) it had lasted a _ lot _ longer.

  5. #5
    C.
    Guest

    Re: Throttle Body



    "Daniel M. Dreifus" wrote:
     

    I am curious about how a fuel additive would help clean the IAC or PCV? The IAC is located in the throttle body. The fuel is
    injected down stream from this, just before the intake valves. The PCV valve only sees stuff from the crankcase. I suppose some of
    a fuel system cleaner might work its way into the crankcase, but I can't see where an effective amount would every make it to the
    PCV valve.

    My opinion (and it is only an opinion) is that IACs are clogged by contamination introduced into the intake tract by the PCV
    system. I can see where a better quality oil might have an effect (or it might not), but I have a hard time believing a fuel
    additive will have a significant effect on the IAC or the throttle body.

    Regards,

    Ed White


  6. #6
    Daniel
    Guest

    Re: Throttle Body

    "C. E. White" <com> wrote in message news:<com>... 

    -- entering into the realm of conjecture here --
    All I know for sure, is that the IAC stays cleaner longer when sprayed
    with the engine idling. Since I also use the CFSC (Red Line), thought
    that may have been a contributing factor also. (By the way, Gave a
    bottle to a relative with a RAV4 for Christmas, and he commented
    yesterday he was slightly amazed he could actually feel an immediate
    improvement)
    From their site:
    "The detergents used survive the combustion process and clean the PCV
    valve and the EGR port as well as cleaning deposits in the combustion
    chamber."
    Once again, conjecture on my part: Isn't crankcase pressure vented by
    the PCV valve generated through "blowby" from the combustion chamber?
    If so, it seems the fuel cleaner surviving the combustion process is
    vented through the PCV valve into the throttle body.

  7. #7
    Philip®
    Guest

    Re: Throttle Body

    In news:com,
    C. E. White <com> being of bellicose mind posted: 

    Lets define "upstream" as the intake tract from the air filter to the
    throttle body.

    Let's define "downstream" as the intake tract from the throttle body to
    the intake valves.

    EGR introduces exhaust gases and fluffy carbon "downstream." So unless
    the EGR entrance is immediately underneath the throttle plate, you won't
    get deposits fouling the throttle body.

    The PCV system has TWO connecting points to the intake tract. The
    downstream point (where the PCV valve is located) will introduce
    deposits "downstream" well below the throttle plate. The other PCV
    connecting point is locate "upstream." Now... under some conditions
    (full throttle and blocked PCV valve), all crankcase vapor will reverse
    normal flow and enter the intake tract "upstream." If this condition is
    prevalent, the throttle body and IAC circuit will get fouled by blowby
    gasses.

    Nothing you put in the gasoline will affect the above. Fuel is injected
    after the throttle body and right before the intake valves. Not
    allowing engine oil to become excessively contaminated will minimize any
    deposits on the intake tract walls.

    Cleaning a throttle body should NEVER be done on the car with a running
    engine. Both the aerosol cleaner and the deposits removed can foul the
    O2 sensor(s). BE sure to use a cleaner that is safe for throttle
    position sensors. Same thing goes for PCV valves. Remove it from the
    engine for proper cleaning.
    --

    - Philip

    "It's no longer a question of staying healthy.
    It's a question of finding a sickness you like."
    -Jackie Mason




  8. #8
    Daniel
    Guest

    Re: Throttle Body

    "Philip®" <net.invalid> wrote in message news:<VKjQb.24215$news.pas.earthlink.net>... 

    You're probably right about not cleaning the throttle body with the
    engine running. There can be a lot of deposits in there, that would go
    right into the engine, perhaps potentially fouling the intake valves
    as well.
    This thread began with the original poster tapping on the throttle
    body to free up the idle air control valve.
    The suggestion was to use emission control safe spray carburetor
    cleaner directly into the air intake at the bottom of the throttle
    body, in front ("upstream") of the butterfly valve (closed position),
    with the engine completely cold.
    Hopefully, with the cold engine, where the oxygen sensor is not yet
    transmitting signals, and the slight amount of gum or varnish released
    from the IAC valve, the O2 sensor is still OK.
    Out of necessity, I've done this procedure twice, and, as mentioned,
    the idle operates correctly at cold start up for a very much longer
    time than if the IAC valve is cleaned cold with the engine off. I used
    to try turning the ignition key on and off, to try to cause the little
    pintel inside to move, but spraying with the engine stumbling from
    stuck IAC valve at cold idle until the mechanism frees up has been
    much more effective - perhaps because the cleaner flows through the
    IAC valve interior passages.
    Now, as it happens, I was wondering whether to replace the O2 sensor
    at 120,000 miles, when I change the timing belt, so I checked it
    recently with a digital multimeter, and the voltage fluctuations (OX1
    at under hood DLC1) seemed normal and good, so apparently I haven't
    yet destroyed mine.
    The better procedure is to remove the Idle Air Control valve for
    cleaning, but that means removing the throttle body, and disconnecting
    water lines, versus a few seconds spraying cleaner after removing a
    single clamp at the air hose. Whole process can be completed in a few
    minutes, and so far, cold start up is still excellent - IAC opens
    immediately at cold start for high idle (1200 +/- for a few seconds,
    then progressively lower with engine warming).


 

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