Chrysler: steering fluid substitute

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003, Skiny wrote:
 

Let's think about this step-by-step.

The purpose of a system flush is to remove stuff that's not supposed to be
there.

The only stuff that's supposed to be there is power steering fluid, and
unless your car's manufacturer specifies automatic transmission fluid for
use in the steering system, the fluid is one of several purpose-specific
formulations.

If you flush the system with something other than the correct fluid, you
will have a system full of stuff that's not supposed to be there
(incorrect fluid) and will then have to flush it through *again* with the
correct fluid. Doesn't seem to make a lot of sense, does it?

DS

>If you flush the system with something other than the correct fluid, you 

Almost right, Dan. But there are exceptions and I will teach you one right
now.

My buddy had this here British motorcycle and the clutch was slipping. I
told him nothing mechanically was wrong with the clutch. The clutch is the
type called "wet clutch" and runs in an engine-oil bath. He had changed
oil using an "SL" service-rated motor oil. I told him this oil is too
slippery and will cause his clutch to slip under maximum torque (around
4000 to 4500 rpm), which was exactly his complaint. This bike was designed
a long time ago and nothing higher than SG/SH should be used and nothing
lighter in viscosity than 15W-xx should be used or it will cause slippage.
Any "energy conserving" oil formulation will be too slippery and cause
clutch troubles.

So he had to flush out the old oil. I helped him. I first drained out all
the oil I could the regular way. Then I filled the oil resorvior with
KEROSINE. I had him start the engine and ran it until kerosine was pouring
out the return pipe. It took about 30 seconds of running and the oil
pressure warning light blinked a little. No load was on the engine, just
fast idle. Then I drained out the oily kerosine and replenshied it with the
15W-40 Universal Motor Oil from Wal-Mart and ran the engine until hot. I
drained this out and refilled it with fresh. The bike runs great now and
there no slippage anymore.

Bottom line: Kerosine is a terrific flushing agent and even has lubricating
properties of his own. It is light and soluble so it scavenges all the
contamination. I recommend it in certain cases, but not for power steering
flush. For power steering flush, follow Dan's instructions. But if your
problem of chattering still persists, your power steering pump is all worn
out.

In article <com>,
Nomen Nescio <com> wrote:
 


So, where the part where you teach Dan something??

Or was it how to be irrelevant?

Neil Nelson wrote: 

I think it was how to ruin an engine running it on kerosene as a
lubricant...

Matt

"Matthew S. Whiting" wrote:
 

Depends on how thoroughly you want (or need) to remove the "stuff
that's not supposed to be there". Using a solvent is usually how you
remove oil and grease, for example.
 
 
 
 

Actually, like most products in the automotive isle, crank-case flush
is, I believe, simply re-packaged kerosene.

Take ordinary chemicals (solvents, cleaners, etc) and put them in the
household section of the store, and charge X. Slap a new label on
them, put a picture of a car on them and put them on the auto-products
shelves, and charge 2X.

MoPar Man wrote: 

I wouldn't put crankcase flush in my engine either. It's made for motor
oil. If it is so sludged up it needs drastic action, then take it apart
and clean and rebuild it properly.


Matt

Matthew S. Whiting wrote:
 

For a sludged engine you can also just change the oil and put in a good
synthetic like Mobil 1. If you're not in a hurry, it will eventually
(over the course of a couple of change intervals) do a decent job of
removing heavy sludge and varnish. I agree that using a solvent
additive to the oil is not a good idea in most cases.

Cheers,

C

Chris Mauritz wrote: 

Or just use synthetic all the time and not have the problem to start
with! :-)


Matt