Nissan Maxima: stainless brake lines.....steve or nisstech Help...

Stainless brake lines reduce pedal travel and they do work great. $80
bucks is reasonable as courtesynissan.com wants about twice that. Just
remember that all of the banjo bolts and washers have to be replaced to
be sure of a good seal. Also, use Ford High Performance Brake Fluid
when you bleed the brakes. Start at the passenger rear side and then do
the driver's rear and then go to the passenger front and then the
driver's side front. Never use synthetic fluid in a Nissan with ABS...
the Ford High Performance Brake Fluid is about $5 a pint from the
dealer and it has the highest poiling point of any DOT3 fluid on the
market.

Bitsbucket wrote:
 

Bitsbucket wrote:
 

Why, do the OE ones look bad? They ussually last aprox 20 years.
 

No. Not enough you could ever -measure-. People claim they "feel better"
etc, I've never experienced this when I've installed them on someone's car.
Then again I had no vested interest in them either!

 

Waste of money IMHO. If they aren't DOT approved lines, they can be
-dangerous- to use on a street car. We won't sell these "race lines"
because of the liability. Seen them fail prematurely because they were
designed to use on a race car with very limited wheel travel and low miles
per year. I mean really, how many miles a year do most race cars see? And
most race tracks don't have pot holes etc.

--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

Hi Steve,
I just have what I consider to be pedal travel that is SLIGHTLY excessive,
and since I am going to do the rotors and pads, just wondered if maybe I
should do them (brake lines, the ones from the caliper to the main hardline)
too. I am debating on whether to put calipers on the front too.......with
that many miles on the clock, I just didn't know what I should do along with
the rotors and pads, ( I am going to bleed all the old brake fluid out and
replace it with fresh too, that is why I was thinking calipers, it never
fails that the bleeders snap off from non use and then I end up replacing
the cal;ipers anyway) what do you think? I just want to do this one time,
while I have it apart, I am planning on springs and struts in the near
future too, should I wait to do the brakes when I do that? In other words I
just want to tear it down one time, not do it bit by bit...
Thanks for your help,
John
PS drove a 99 Z-28 Chevy yesterday, low miles, in good shape, damn it makes
me appreciate my Maxima, no my Maxima is not as quick, but the build quality
is heads and tails better than the chevy. Little things like the turn
signal stalk, it feels cheap in the chevy.... I'd like to have one of those
LT1 cars, they are QUICK! but the sacrifice in build quality is just not
worth it, at least to me.....(Dream car: 99 Maxima, RWD, with an LT1 engine,
6 speed manual....yes I know, it's impossible, well at least on MY budget!)


"Steve T" <com> wrote in message
news:de... 
pads, 
the 
car. 


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Bitsbucket wrote: 
Any car no matter how old can benefit from stainless steel brakelines.
Make sure they are DOT approved. As for reducing pedal travel, I've had
a set of SS brakelines on my 98 Max SE, same as your car . . . just
about. It wasn't so much pedal travel that was reduced, but more of
pedal firmness and feel that was enhanced. Definitely worth it as I
could modulate brake pressure with much better precision.

HTH

CD

Bitsbucket wrote:
 

I seriously doubt you'd be able to tell the difference if you didn't know
they were there.

--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

That is what I was talking about really, just a better "feel" on the brakes.
I can get a set for all 4 corners for what the local parts house (read....
AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts etc.) for what for factory replacements,
actually LESS than factory replacements, so I was wondering if they were
worth replacing.....seems you have answered that with your statement. I
believe while I am going thru the trouble to replace all that stuff, and
bleed the brakes, it's probably worth getting a higher grade part, over
factory, especially since they are LESS money!
Thanks again,
2Maximas....(John) (I own 2, a 96 SE and a 97 SE CLONE, you know, all the SE
parts added to a GXE...)


"Codifus" <net> wrote in message
news:ciuupe$jlr$interpublic.com... 
pads, 
the 
can 
this 


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Bitsbucket wrote:
 

So really you were just looking for someone who shared your opinion?

I'm sure you'll feel the difference -after- you've spent the money for this
"upgrade". :-/

--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

"Steve T" <com> wrote in message news:de... 

So if they're DOT approved, they're OK then? Or are you saying that
braided hoses in general fail sooner than the other kind?

Brake upgrades that make sense to me (in order):
DOT 5.1 fluid (to reduce boiling-fluid fade).
Slotted rotors (to reduce pad-smoking, and fade from gas buildup).
Aftermarket pads (if there is any need).

If they help, it would be convenient to install the brake hoses when changing the fluid.
But if they don't help...

What's your take on brake upgrades?