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Jeep: Sporadic malfuntion of the Tach and Speedmeter

  1. #1
    Dale
    Guest

    Sporadic malfuntion of the Tach and Speedmeter

    Ever so often when started the Tach and Speedo do not function, the needles
    stay on zero. The really strange part is that if I flip the rear defroster
    switch on and off they start working? This a 1997 Sport 4.0 ltr with hard
    top. Any ideas would be appriciated.

    Dale Peterson


  2. #2
    91
    Guest

    Re: Sporadic malfuntion of the Tach and Speedmeter

    For what it's worth, how strong is your battery? The Jeeps (in my
    experience) are very touchy when it comes to the battery. Just a thought.

    91 Mustang GT
    260K+ miles


    "Dale Peterson" <net> wrote in message
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  3. #3
    Guest

    Re: Sporadic malfuntion of the Tach and Speedmeter

    I have a Wrangler 99 with the very same problem. I have a friend with a 99
    also that has the exact same problem. If I bang on the dash it goes away
    temporarily.I have looked for any kind of short or loose wire and have found
    none.This problem has been happening since both jeeps were new. If you find
    a solution to the problem please inform me.
    Thanks Mike in Colorado
    "Dale Peterson" <net> wrote in message
    news:1xfEe.1624$lga... 
    needles 
    defroster 



  4. #4
    91
    Guest

    Re: Sporadic malfuntion of the Tach and Speedmeter

    FWIW, my 97 GC had issues like that when the battery got weak.

    91 Red GT
    250K +


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  5. #5
    John
    Guest

    Re: Sporadic malfuntion of the Tach and Speedmeter

    I also have a 99 Wrangler. I had the same problem. It stems from a "Design
    Issue" with the instrument cluster. Oxidation will develop on a couple of
    pins causing the circuitry to not function properly. Basically, a bad
    connection.

    There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) 08-15-99 issued in May of 1999
    describing the cure. I got a copy of the TSB. It has a diagram and specific
    info. I removed the instrument cluster and scraped the oxidation off the
    appropriate pins and re-installed. The oxidation is difficult to see. I used
    a small magnifying glass to verify. No more problems to date. That was about
    2 years ago.

    The actual cure requires a new connector and cutting the old one from the
    harness and soldering the new one in.

    To me, it was easier to remove the cluster and scrape the pins.

    Hope this helps...


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