Chrysler: Split C.V. joint boots.

"Chris Mauritz" <net> wrote in message
news:Qo11b.136818$srv.hcvlny.cv.net... 
Not at all. Just do it right: take apart, clean and wash in kerosene, dry,
fill with fresh grease, assemble, put new boots on.

I drove with repared CV joints for years. Just do not wait. Dirt in the
joint really kills.

Alex

Paul Wrote:
Don't waste your time. Too messy and joint may be worn. My 89 had a
torn boot and a split cost $25. An entire cv joint was $69. I replaced
it in two hours, A price from local mechanic was $145.



steve piskor wrote:
 

Um, if you're going to take the joint apart, clean, and repack it, you are
going to take the axle out anyway. Why would you want to then waste time
with a split boot (which was the original posters question)??? Also, if I'm
going to take the time to remove the axle, it's worth the minimal additional
cost to put a new joint/axle in.

Cheers,

C

"Alex" <rr.com> wrote in message
news:f3f1b.22464$southeast.rr.com... 

Um, if you're going to take the joint apart, clean, and repack it, you are
going to take the axle out anyway. Why would you want to then waste time
with a split boot (which was the original posters question)??? Also, if I'm
going to take the time to remove the axle, it's worth the minimal additional
cost to put a new joint/axle in.

Cheers,

C

"Alex" <rr.com> wrote in message
news:f3f1b.22464$southeast.rr.com... 

Except for the fact that the reman axels are shit. More often than not, the
reman axel doesn't last longer than the boot, regardless of whether dirt
gets in or not. When I clean out a reman joint for boot replacement, I
often find way more pitting and scoring of the bearing surfaces than with
OEM axels. I've read that the reman units use oversize balls and the
sockets are ground to near the limits of the heat treating, thus they are
less durable.
"Chris Mauritz" <net> wrote in message
news:tnV1b.172654$srv.hcvlny.cv.net... 
I'm 
additional 
dry,