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Mazda Miata: Red paint questions continued

  1. #1
    dhawo
    Guest

    Red paint questions continued

    I have a red 89 miata with a whole bunch of chips in the paint from driving
    it across the country and the seattle cement freeways blasting it away.

    I know "nothing" about preparation and painting. I would appreciate if
    someone tell me what steps to take to touch-up the chips in the nosecone
    and panels. Most car washes have wax in them, I dont know if that effects
    the adhesiveness of the touch-up paint or not. I also remember washing my
    beautiful red 67 Ford Fairlane with laundry detergent and destroying that
    new
    paint job. I dont wish to relive that experience.

    Also if I may, I had two drops of tree sap bake on the paint behind the rear
    window. I got something (409?) and rubbed it off and scuffed the paint.
    Is there a clearcoat on this paint? Did I ruin it? What can I do to repair
    the scuff if it is not clearcoat? Thank you all! Dean



  2. #2
    chuckk
    Guest

    Re: Red paint questions continued

    You will need to use a solvent to remove any wax and other stuff from the
    areas that you intend to touch up. A very small artist's brush will be
    needed if you intend to just fill the chip. In addition, a mild solvent
    wetted lint free cloth should be available to immediately wipe off a goof.
    Test whatever red paint you use on a "so what" area first. This is for color
    match, and compatability. Hobby stores sell a plastic backed package of
    extremely fine wet & dry sandpaper. There is a small tube of "body putty"
    available at most auto stores that can be used to fill a chip before touch
    up paint is used. One of my neighbors is in the touch up business, and uses
    an air brush with heavily thinned paint. Depending on the climate and the
    paint used, there is a drying time, and a cure time. The drying time is
    fairly short, and the cure time is longer. It is easier to clean up
    overspray and other little problems before the paint is completely dry and
    obviously before it partially cures. Cleanup may need to be done within an
    hour or so, and hand applied rubbing compound is more effective when used
    before the paint is completely cured (usually a few hours). After final cure
    (a few days minimum), fine rubbing compound can be used to get a glasslike
    finish if desired. Once this is all finished, then a decent wax job is
    appropriate. The solvents and compounds used in touchup have removed all
    protection from the paint.

    Just the high spots. There are lots of gritty little details.

    "dhawo" <com> wrote in message
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  3. #3
    Lanny
    Guest

    Re: Red paint questions continued

    In article <P4cOc.2248$news.pas.earthlink.net>,
    "dhawo" <com> wrote:
     

    Dawn dishwashing liquid is the standard product for stripping wax.

    --
    Lanny Chambers, St. Louis, USA
    '94C
    the alignment page:
    http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html

  4. #4
    Chris
    Guest

    Re: Red paint questions continued

    Chuck's info might work fine for an expert but seems totally inappropriate
    for a guy who is asking how to do this, sounds like for the first time.
    Nothing personal Chuck!

    I'll try to give you a simple / feasable (sp?) method that can be quite
    effective w/o sanding, spraying or filling!

    You do need to remove any wax, autoparts places sell it as 'wax and grease
    remover'. Of course make sure your touch-up paint is properly stirred and is
    an acceptable match before proceeding. I apply the paint with the tip of a
    tooth pick. A small amount for a small chip, on up to greater amounts for
    larger chips. The idea is to 'deposit' the correct amount into the chip to
    'fill' it, for best results. For large rock chips, you might want to rub
    around a small amount of paint to get good adhesion and to help the
    'droplet' of paint that you deposit to spread out into the area better. The
    key is getting the correct amount of paint on the tooth pick (we're talking
    very small amounts here), you can put a few drops in a cap of some sort so
    you can see and controll it well. With a little practice you can do quite
    well. I'm just afraid Chucks method takes much practice and has opportunity
    for disaster, which, I'm all for opportunity but......

    Good luck,
    Chris
    92BB&T

    "chuckk" <compuserve.com> wrote in message
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    color 
    uses 
    cure 
    driving 
    effects 
    my 
    that 



  5. #5
    chuckk
    Guest

    Re: Red paint questions continued

    A pin or needle works as well or better than a toothpick. (And you can reuse
    it)
    The trick is to get (as you mentioed) the right amount of paint in the chip.
    The "body putty" allows you to fill a deeper chip, and provide some tooth
    for the paint to stick to. The two solvents I usually use are a wax remover
    (small black can 3M & others) and a paint prep solvent commonly called
    "preps all". It is mild and will clean cured paint without making it soft,
    and can be used to wipe off excess paint when it's still in a plastic state.
    The other solvent is stroner, and should be used carefully, with a test in a
    non critical area first. If left on cured pain as a puddle, the paint will
    soften. (At least this happens with paint code SU, which is Red without the
    clearcoat.

    My pet peeve -- a factory paint job with light orange peel that has been
    clearcoated. Both the paint and clearcoat are likely to have some orange
    peal, and esp with metallic colors, cannot be easily turned into a smooth
    mirror finish.

    Favorite wax-- High Carnuba Content with UV protection. Locks into the paint
    to the point that light rubbing compound applied by hand doesn't do
    anything.

    "Chris D'Agnolo" <net> wrote in message
    news:supernews.com... 


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