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Jeep: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

  1. #1
    updawaz00@hotmail.com
    Guest

    Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

    Yes, a inexperienced peson wanting a toy... I recently purchased a jeep
    with a 2.5" skyjacker suspension lift 0.5" shackle lift and a 1" body
    lift. My question is control and safety on highway driving. Someone had
    told me that a shackle lift makes control an issue with a short base
    vehicle. being that I would use this vehicle in the summer to drive on
    a major hwy 40mi one way to work, would it be recomended to scale down
    the lifts and which would be best. I'm assuming that some of the drive
    train has been modified to accomodate the lifting, so what should i
    look for in reversing those issues? I'll do some off roading but it is
    also a time to time work vehicle.

    Wazz00


  2. #2
    HarryS
    Guest

    Re: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

    If the suspension and body lift was done properly with the correct tire off
    set there should not be a problem. If you are just going to be on the
    highway and you have off road tires change them out for a tire that is
    mainly for the highway. Remember GOOGLE is your friend.

    --
    HarryS My 2¢
    <com> wrote in message
    news:googlegroups.com...
    | Yes, a inexperienced peson wanting a toy... I recently purchased a jeep
    | with a 2.5" skyjacker suspension lift 0.5" shackle lift and a 1" body
    | lift. My question is control and safety on highway driving. Someone had
    | told me that a shackle lift makes control an issue with a short base
    | vehicle. being that I would use this vehicle in the summer to drive on
    | a major hwy 40mi one way to work, would it be recomended to scale down
    | the lifts and which would be best. I'm assuming that some of the drive
    | train has been modified to accomodate the lifting, so what should i
    | look for in reversing those issues? I'll do some off roading but it is
    | also a time to time work vehicle.
    |
    | Wazz00
    |



  3. #3
    updawaz00@hotmail.com
    Guest

    Re: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

    Hi - what is ment by "correct tire off" - thanks

    HarryS wrote: 
    tire off 
    the 
    is 
    jeep 
    body 
    had 
    base 
    on 
    down 
    drive 
    is 


  4. #4
    updawaz00@hotmail.com
    Guest

    Re: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

    Hi - what is ment by "correct tire off" - thanks

    HarryS wrote: 
    tire off 
    the 
    is 
    jeep 
    body 
    had 
    base 
    on 
    down 
    drive 
    is 


  5. #5
    Cherokee-Ltd
    Guest

    Re: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

    "correct tire off-set" This refers to the backspacing of the rim and
    controls how far in/out your tires are in relation to your fenders.
    -Brian

    <com> wrote in message
    news:googlegroups.com...
    Hi - what is ment by "correct tire off" - thanks

    HarryS wrote: 
    tire off 
    the 
    is 
    jeep 
    body 
    had 
    base 
    on 
    down 
    drive 
    is 



  6. #6
    updawaz00@hotmail.com
    Guest

    Re: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

    Oh- I see... that is to adjust the wheelbase wider for compensation of
    the taller vehicle?

    Just one more quick quick question...

    With the suspension lift, what modifications may have been done to the
    drive shaft ect.. to compensate for the greater angle between ends of
    the drive shaft?

    thanks for the jeep 101 tutorials



    Cherokee-Ltd wrote: 

    Someone 
    drive 

    it 


  7. #7
    Cherokee-Ltd
    Guest

    Re: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?


    <com> wrote in message
    news:googlegroups.com...
    Oh- I see... that is to adjust the wheelbase wider for compensation of
    the taller vehicle?

    *******No, although that would be benficial. Wheel offset is to correct
    interference issues and is usually more critical for the steering axle. The
    correct offset, even a 1/4" may make the difference in rubbing a control arm
    when turning or ripping a fender flare off when the suspension is fully
    compressed.

    Just one more quick quick question...

    With the suspension lift, what modifications may have been done to the
    drive shaft ect.. to compensate for the greater angle between ends of
    the drive shaft?

    *******The driveshaft angle must be correct or the result is vibration. This
    occurs when the universal joints have different angles. When the driveshaft
    spins on an angle, the bottom of the joint is actually turning at a
    different speed than the top of the joint. When the output shaft (transfer
    case) and input shaft (rear end) are aligned correctly, they off-set
    eachother and eliminate vibration. With a regular driveshaft, you DO NOT
    want the ends pointing at eachother, you want them parallel to eachother.

    At extreme angles like those found on a lifted TJ, not only do you need a
    way to compensate for high angle, you need a longer driveshaft and a method
    for preventing the driveshaft from disconnecting at the slip yoke on the
    transfercase due to increased suspension travel. This is when you install a
    "slip yoke eliminator" (SYE) and a "double cardon" or "constant velocity"
    (CV) driveshaft.

    By eliminating the slip yoke from the transfer case, you need an extendable
    driveshaft. The driveshaft must extend when suspension extends and contract
    when the suspension compresses. The slip yoke is built into the driveshaft.

    A double cardon or CV joint on the driveshaft solves the angle issue. When
    you install it, you aim the rear end yoke at the transfer case yoke. To
    visualize, the front of the driveshaft bends down from the transfer case
    yoke via 2 universal joints that compensate for eachother and runs inline
    the rest of the way into the rear end.
    See here: http://tinyurl.com/5x9yo

    -Brian



    Cherokee-Ltd wrote: 

    Someone 
    drive 

    it 



  8. #8
    Jumpin'
    Guest

    Re: Performance and control issues with lifts what should I beware of?

    On 18 Mar 2005 20:39:06 -0800, com wrote:
     


    Any lift raises your center of gravity. With a total of 4" lift, I
    would avoid sudden swerves as you are more likely to roll a lifted
    vehicle then an unlifted vehicle.
    Be aware of this when you drive and you will be fine.

    A 1" body lift does not create any real problems.
    It is not high enough to force you to bend the shift levers or
    relocate the radiator. It does allow more crap to enter your engine
    compartment since there is now a gap between rail & fender.
    Some gas tank upgrades use this added space to give you a larger tank
    or your tank is also raised to make room for a rockshield
    Your fuel mileage will take a hit. Probably from the increased
    turbulence.

    A 0.5" shackle lift is not enough to cause any problems and is a very
    safe upgrade.
    A 2.5" suspension lift is the best & safest way to get the height but
    with comes a much stiffer ride.
    It's a sweet but hard riding combination to get you 3" of 'safe' lift.
    In either event, your fuel mileage also takes a hit.

    Drive-train Modifications:
    Problem here is that with a 3" lift, your axle's pinion yoke no longer
    points at the transfer case and has to be adjusted by adding shims to
    where the spring is clamped to the axle. With the wrong angle, you
    will go through lots of U-joints. Sometimes the transfer case is
    shimmed as well.

    If you are looking to reverse your suspension lift, you will have to
    reshim your axles. It's probably not necessary if you are only
    reversing the {small) shackle lift and not at all for reversing your
    body lift. This is pretty cheap if you have the tools.
    You may also have to replace all your flexible brake lines as they
    will now be too long. You will probably also have to change some
    steering components such as the pinion arm.

    Another drive-train modification that I would assume was done to your
    jeep to enable it to run the 35" tires that your lift allows, was to
    change the ratio in your axles.
    What this means is that when you go back to smaller tires (as you must
    after dropping it) you will find your engine running at a much higher
    rpm to keep your speed up.
    This is big bucks and involves regearing your axles.

    Your speedometer will also read that you are going too fast and will
    need a new gear. This is real cheap. (relatively speaking)

    My suggestion to you is rather then dropping your jeep, is to leave
    the lift alone and invest in a cheap set of rims & tires, more on the
    original size, to get you through the summer & live with the higher
    rpm's and incorrect speedometer.
    If you think that small tires on a lifted vehicle are unacceptable,
    then consider getting as narrow a tire as you can while keeping the
    height. e.g. BFG 33 x 9" AT

    An alternative solution might be to just get rid of the body lift and
    run 32 or 33's. Your mileage will go up and you won't have to change
    much more then a speedo gear.

    Big tires are expensive to buy, they wear fast and your gas mileage
    takes a hit from the larger profile. Steering components wear faster
    from their heavier weight. Best to avoid commuting on them.

    Have you considered parking the jeep & buying an old Geo for the
    commute? It'll probably work out cheaper and you can sell it after.

    JJ


 

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