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Ford Mustang: Oil and Electrical Gauge Questions

  1. #1
    sariwa1
    Guest

    Oil and Electrical Gauge Questions

    Oil:

    Hello fellow newsgroupers! I have a 91 5.0 LX with approximately 102,000
    miles on the motor. Two weeks ago I changed the oil (Valvoline Max Live
    10w40) and filter. I went approximately 1500 miles past my normal 3000 mile
    change.

    I have a few questions...

    1. Does the gauge display oil pressure?

    The gauge from mustangs of that year, is a vertical indication which reads
    "N-O-R-M-A-L" with the N at the top of the normal range and the L at the
    bottom. My gauge at idle hover right at or below the "L", but rises to
    about the "A" during normal driving.

    2. Is this normal, should I be concerned? I checked the oil level, and
    that is good. If not, what corrective actions should I take?

    Electrical:

    At idle, or a stop light, (during the day with the air conditioner running),
    the charging indicator will dip down close to the - (negative) symbol on the
    gauge. At night with the air conditioner and lights on (once again at idle
    or a stop light) I get the same indication. However the needle will move
    upwards to the + (positive) symbol during normal driving.

    Same question as above. Is this normal, should I be concerned? If not,
    what corrective actions should I take? Any advice is appreciated.

    Thomas
    1991 5.0 LX, AOD
    Completely stock with the exception of a
    Densecharger Cold Air Induction Kit



  2. #2
    Serge
    Guest

    Re: Oil and Electrical Gauge Questions

    I would check my oil pressure with an oil pressure gauge to be on the safe
    side. These stock meters are very inacurate. You could also check your oil
    sender connection for corosion, corosion will add resistance in the circuit
    and cause a low reading.

    As for your choice of oil...good greaf get that oil out of your engine. You
    caught on to the marketting hype...these oils have seal softeners in them
    that will eventually ruin them. All those softening additives should only be
    used in cars that are on their last breath to stop them from dumping/burning
    all of their oil...Get a good synthetic...

    Your alternator's low voltage reading is typical of cars with aftermarket
    pullies...again, coroded connections will produce those low readings...A
    quick whip out of the voltmeter will tell you if everything is fine. Your
    batery voltage should be around 14V when the car is running...

    Hope this helps,

    Serge

    "sariwa1" <net> wrote in message
    news:n30_a.10120$.. 
    mile 
    running), 
    the 
    idle 



  3. #3
    JS
    Guest

    Re: Oil and Electrical Gauge Questions


    "sariwa1" <net> wrote in message
    news:n30_a.10120$.. 

    I'd be willing to bet that this is electrical too. As Serge pointed out,
    this is typically an issue with the sender or the gauge, not oil pressure.
    I've had these cars reading almost 0 oil pressure. You'd think 5,000 miles
    of 0 oil pressure would cause the thing to at least make some noise, if not
    lock up.

    I'd do as Serge suggested and test it with a separate gauge that doesn't
    rely on the sending unit. If it's good, you might want to try to replace
    the sending unit as they're known to go bad, clean up connections that are
    known for corroding.
     

    Your battery voltage could be quite a few things. Corrosion of any point of
    the charging system (including the block ground) will cause an issue. At
    this moment in time I'd be happy with the situation you're in because mine
    needs a block ground and I can't get the bolt out.

    With accessories off and the car running, you should get, as Serge said, 14V
    at the battery. The car, with stock pullies, should also be able to handle
    the A/C on at a stoplight without getting that close to the red zone on the
    gauge. If you're talking it goes below the middle line and to the next one
    down, that's ok... if you're approaching red, you have problems somewhere.
    You could get the alternator checked (had mine done free at a local shop),
    get the charging system checked (free at places like Advance Auto, Auto
    Zone, etc), and research any grounding issues.

    Good luck...

    JS




 

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