Lexus: new window motor

"DrDiamond" <com> wrote in message
news:com... 

This is kind of spooky. I JUST went through the exact same situation with
the my 90 LS400 last weekend. AFTER you removed the four mounting bolts for
the motor/gear assembly, did you try the switch again? My motor WORKED! On
the outer top edge of the door, there is a round circle cutout stuck over an
access hole (actually there are a total of three or four of these. They
allow access to the bolts that the glass mount to the mechanism). The
second hole (?) from the outer edge allows you to adjust the window stop
(ORANGE is visible). Quite by accident, played around with this adjustment.
If it allowed the window to go up too high, the window froze, and I had to
remove the 4 mounting bolts to get things to work again - major pain... BUT
if I moved the adjustment DOWN - just a hair, it has been working ever
since!

I also cleaned out the switch. The contact points for the auto down feature
of the driver's window had a lot of carbon. Be careful if you decide to do
this because there are 4 or 5 contact springs that just sit on pins and may
go flying out when you open it up. It is actually very easy if you watch
out for those springs.

If this doesn't fix YOUR problem, I could see NO way of removing JUST the
motor. It looked as if the motor was attacted to the gear assembly. If
your remove the bolts to the glass, I think you may be able to get out the
entire mechanism out the outer most access (not the speaker hole).

Update me with your progress.

I couldn't tell from your original post if you had removed the vapor
barrier. It needs to come off and its another major pain. I used a sharp
knife to cut between the black sealant and the door. Try to have most of it
stays with the plastic vapor barrier, but it doesn't matter much, because
you are going to re-apply it to the door anyway. The black sealant is
sticky as hell.

Be careful when removing the push on connectors (?) used to hold the wires
in place. They all WILL come out intact(hopefully) with a small knife
pushing in at just the right spot(s). After you get the first one out,
study how it works. They are all similar and have the same configuration
that needs to be worked with the knife to pry them out.

On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 10:06:30 GMT, "Jerohm" <net>
wrote:
 

OOO, good timing!

I didnt get as far as removing any bolts attached to the motor. I'm
not a very daring person, as far as cars go. But I'll give that a
try.

The switch still works, at least it makes the motor 'growl' quietly,
so I'm sure the connection is good. That was my first suspect.
Lexus's (Lexi?) are famously predictible, even in failure, so I
probably have the same problem as you. I hope. hehehe
I'll update when I have news.

And if you happen to have any pictures of the door, that'd be killer.
I think I'll take a few for illustration purposes. Hell, the only
reason I was able to get the skin off is from the pics at
www.carstereohelp.com They have some really good info about all
models.

Thanks for the tip
Doc

Follow up!

I just undid all four bolts. Motor still wont move the window. It
still whirrs and tries to move, but no dice. The cogged gear looks
to be fine. I'm not sure how the motor comes out. I'll work on
it more tomorrow when it's light out and i'm sober.

Doc

On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 13:29:57 -0700, DrDiamond
<com> wrote:
 

"DrDiamond" <com> wrote in message
news:com... 

If the motor is still working, with the bolts removed, the window WON'T
move, but the entire mechanism (gear and motor assembly) SHOULD move when
the switch is activated. With the 4 bolts out, the window may be stuck, but
WILL be able to be pulled down (and up for that matter) by hand. Work the
window up an down a couple of times so that it moves freely. As the window
is moved manually (by hand) up & down, the entire mechanism is hanging on
that 6"(?) track connected to the glass. If your motor IS working, manually
position the glass at some open point. You will need to use the switch
(motor) to position the mechanism to line up with the 4 holes for the
mounting bolts. Re-bolt and try power window, BUT DO NOT RAISE TO THE
COMPLETELY CLOSED POSITION.

If your got this far, loosen the window stop adjustment (it has orange on
it) and position it WAY LOW so that you can never completely close your
window. Try it one or two time and see if everything still works. The
motor seems to get pretty hot, so I would take a beer break here for an hour
or so.

Loosen the window stop adjustment and close window JUST enough to be closed
without it binding up too tight against the top of its frame. Tighten the
stop adjustment and try the switch.
Good Luck

On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 10:12:12 GMT, "Jerohm" <net>
wrote:
 

Well, the motor makes noise, but the geared 'wheel' does not budge.
I would assume that wheel should move through the assembly when
the button is pressed. The window is easily moved by hand, especially
when the motor is unmounted from the door. But you can only go so
high...

I can get most of the wheel/motor assembly to show up in the vacated
speaker box hole. I'm not sure what to do next. Vis-a-vis removal.
I should drive it to the shop (they love me and my car by now) and
have them test the motor, or whatnot. I'm pretty sure it's burnt.

With the 4 bolts out, the window may be stuck, but 
Try as I might, I never found any orange adjustment.

Thanks for your help
Doc
 

"DrDiamond" <com> wrote in message
news:com... 

Well that is too bad. The only way "I" saw to get the motor mechanism out
is to disconnect it from the window. There is a short track that connects
the motor assembly to the glass. I would have thought that the "slide"
could just be snapped out of the track... but I didn't discover how; it
seems like you have to unbolt the track. Well I am sorry that your
situation wasn't the same as mine. I would like to know how things work out
for you (including what it ultimately cost you - I still may not be out of
the woods).

On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 03:34:00 GMT, "Jerohm" <net>
wrote:
 

I took it to the shop i"ve used before... they have a new
manager, and he's a fucking asshole. Damn. That place was really
cool before. Anyway, Ted the good guy said, since the motor still
makes noise, it's likely the regulator gone faulty. it tells the
motor not to move, as if the window is all the way up or down.
I'll have to bang on it some or get a new regulator. Part cost
was quoted around 165 bucks. Dear god, all that for a window.

Oh well, it's a great car
Doc