Ford Mustang: Just Wondering ....

Ok... I don't claim to know most of this stuff, but this is my
understanding....

Forced induction cars - and all cars IIRC, have a vacuum canister with a
one-way check valve that will retain some vacuum for things like the heater
controls, emissions control motors, etc. Also realize that a majority of
the time, the car is being operated in vacuum (especially when slowing down,
thus providing the brake booster with the necessary vacuum). I'm guessing
here, but it sounds feasible. In any normal car, at WOT you also have no
useable vacuum, and the heater controls still function and such.

Nitrous wet and dry shots.... dry shots spray only the nitrous and involve a
modified fuel injection system to compensate. This can be anything from a
chip telling your computer to add more fuel when the nitrous is applied (in
which case you'll probably have to upgrade fuel system components) to
putting the nitrous injector before the MAF sensor, telling the computer
there is more oxygen entering and providing more fuel. Wet systems provide
both fuel and nitrous at the same time. They may also require an upgraded
fuel system. This allows the computer to function normally and let the
electronics that come with the nitrous kit do the fuel monitoring.

Nitrous should also be used with a few safety precautions... a switch to
monitor fuel pressure is a definate thing to have, unless you want a freak
accident to cost you dearly. Wide open throttle switches, RPM window
activation switches, etc, control when the nitrous kicks in.

On just about any engine, it's recommended to not kick the nitrous in too
early or you'll most likely hurt something. 3000 RPM window switches seem
to be the number flying around... therefore when the RPMs reach 3000, it'll
kick in the sauce and away you go. Just make sure you watch the tach
though... if you think redline comes fast enough now, it'll be worse. I
guess with an AOD you could perhaps let it shift itself, but you might want
to have that rebuilt as well for a more performance-oriented application
such as the one you're proposing.

I don't know the limits on blocks. If you really want to squeeze the hell
out of it, spend the money and build a totally new engine from an A4 block
with forged internals... you should be good to the upper hundreds of
horsepower. If you're just looking for a toy, have the block checked for
cracks and stressed areas, rebuild it with good forged internals, and
squeeze it.. you *should* be able to safely achieve 450-500hp... I think
beyond that the block wants to give up... but I can't remember exactly.

Hope that was some food for thought. You might also want to consider how
you're gonna get the power to the pavement....

JS

"Luna" <cya> wrote in message
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Another 
shots 

LOL @ the pick 6 comment.

At least you have a goal for the car. Many people mod these cars up and not
even have a direction, then they're not pleased with the results.

The supsension chioces are good for stiffening up the chassis and making it
feel like one car instead of two distinctly separate cars held in place by
some floorpan and some roof... which in your case is minimal at best. An
aftermarket shock/spring package might also help keep you firmly on the
ground.

Don't skimp out on the rubber either... the tires are your only contact with
the road. I've seen people bitching about their car's performance and then
you look and they have those tires on that are supposed to last 100,000.
Hint to those people - if it's gonna last that long, it's probably closer to
the hardness of brick.

I still like forced induction over NOS for a road machine. Not only is it
legal (it's illegal to run your car on the street with the NOS bottle valve
open in PA), but it's always there, you never have to refill it, and even if
you're under the 3000 RPM level, you can still put some boost to it. With a
rebuilt, forged bottom end and new heads / valve seals, you should have a
very reliable engine provided you're not trying to pump out a ton of boost.
You should be able to build your engine easily to handle 10psi of boost,
more than enough to throw you through the turns, and do so all day long.

As for intakes, people really seem to like the Cobra or GT-40 intakes. The
Trick Flow stuff (at least the Track Heat) is way too big on an N/A 302 and
would be better suited on a 351 or blown/stroked 302. I have the Track Heat
setup and the car ran better with it off, at least with the stock heads on
it.

Daydreaming is of course free. Finding room to get everything to fit in
your budget is priceless. ;-)

JS

"Luna" <cya> wrote in message
news:com... 
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