Toyota Trucks: How to Reconnect Sensor Under Intake Manifold??

Luther wrote:
 
Luther, easy fix. This wire goes to the knock sensor under the intake.
Being as your overhauling the engine, replace the small pigtail wire
itself. All dealers stock them, about $15 for the wire. We replace these
averytime we have it apart. Any corrosion or connection less than
perfect will give you a kncok sensor code ansd default timing for no
power. Long wasy back in.

--





Inasmuch as the Democrats are complaining on how long the war is taking,
consider this:

It took less time to take Iraq than it took Janet Reno to take the
Branch Davidian compound. That was a 51-day operation.

It took less time to find Saddam's sons in Iraq than it took Hillary
Clinton to find the Rose Law Firm billing records.

It took less time for the 3rd Infantry Division and the Marines to
destroy the Medina Republican Guard than it took Teddy Kennedy to call
the police after his Oldsmobile sunk at Chappaquiddick.

It took less time to take Iraq than it took to count the votes in
Florida! TWICE!!!!!

Damn our military is GREAT!!

"MDT Tech®" <com> wrote in message
news:303Jb.15510$news.pas.earthlink.net...
 

Thanks for the reply. It's good to know that it is the knock sensor that
this is connected to. I am not quite clear on your fix, however.

Note that I have not pulled the intake manifold nor do I want to. I only
went as far down as the injectors and am now putting it all back together.

On the wiring harness side of the connector, the two leads have pulled out
and I think that half of the connector is broken inside because the leads
are not secure when reinserted. Are you saying that I should replace the
connector and the wires down to the sensor? This would mean pulling the
manifold. if that is the right thing to do, I suppose I will bite the
bullet and do it. As you say, it's a long way back in.

I still don't know which wire is supposed to be connected to which; but, I
suppose if I work my way down to the sensor, I can figure this out.

Luther

Luther wrote:
 


Yes, you must do it to fix it right. Now the problem you will run into
is the large bearing on the front, its running the timing belt. If your
feeling cocky, take a small pair of vise grips, clamp the belt to the
pulley, unbolt the intake. Then re-install the intake, it will pull
everything back in place. Otherwise, you'll need to take lose the timing
belt. Yes, replace this wire. 


--





Inasmuch as the Democrats are complaining on how long the war is taking,
consider this:

It took less time to take Iraq than it took Janet Reno to take the
Branch Davidian compound. That was a 51-day operation.

It took less time to find Saddam's sons in Iraq than it took Hillary
Clinton to find the Rose Law Firm billing records.

It took less time for the 3rd Infantry Division and the Marines to
destroy the Medina Republican Guard than it took Teddy Kennedy to call
the police after his Oldsmobile sunk at Chappaquiddick.

It took less time to take Iraq than it took to count the votes in
Florida! TWICE!!!!!

Damn our military is GREAT!!

"MDT Tech®" <com> wrote in message
news:cn6Jb.30071$news.pas.earthlink.net...
 

Ha! I just finished putting a new timing belt on five minutes ago! Well,
at least I have had practice for when I put it back on.

I wasn't thinking about that no. 2 idler bearing being bolted to the
manifold, but I suppose it must be -so, that will have to come (back) off
as well.

I will pull the manifold and replace the wire. BTW, the shop manual seems
to omit information on testing/replacing the knock sensor. It has every
other sensor excelpt this one. I have looked several times and cannot find
any information on it (except for a symbol on a schematic on FI-2). Any
tips on checking this thing to make sure it is working? Perhaps I should
just put a new one on while I am in there?

Thanks again for the information. It is spot on.

Luther