Saab: Hot Running 900 T16 - blocked radiator?

Mike P wrote:
 

Could be, but that is quite unlikely.

 

Could be.

 

Could be.

Add to that list possible lean mixture or incorrect timing.

 

That's a lot.

 

You need to find out where that litre is going. Could be
dripping out somewhere, in which case it's not related to the
overheating. Or it could be being burnt, which would be causing
the overheating.

Blocked rad is possible but unusual.

--
Grunff

"Mike P" <com> wrote in message
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I'd find that leak mate, patch that up. Refill and bleed the system again
then see how it is. I've replaced some pretty nasty rads in 900's and never
had a problem with a silted up one. Doesn't mean you couldn't just that its
pretty rare.

Its could be a headgasket fail, first signs are normaly a slight
overpressure of the coolant system leading to it spitting water out of the
pump. Dangle a sniffer into the header tank and see if it comes up with
anything.

Matt

"Mike P" <com> wrote in message
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A classic example of a tired radiator, more horsepower = more heat, putting
on the heater brings down the temp thus helping out the rad. If you have the
copper radiator, look at the fins and you will probably find that they have
turned to dust. Ovbiously the water loss may be a seperate issue, but change
the rad first. I have done lots of rads to cure motorway overheating abd it
worked every time. Make sure the rad is for a t16 as they are cored thicker
than the others, HTH, Tom. 

"Tom" <com> wrote in message
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Thanks for all your advice chaps!

I'll get hold of a s/h rad from the local SAAB specialist and fit it at the
weekend. Won't cost a lot
and then I'll see where we go from there. I was pissed off yesterday, and
was going to sell it but I drove it again
today and it's just too much fun :-)

Mike

"Mike P" <com> wrote in message news:<brht9k$26che$news.uni-berlin.de>... 

Hi Mike

Your problem is probably due to the sasklar thermostat linkage. You
can spot it as a small, purple knob underneath the right hand side
(remember: you are the car, as far as orientation is concerned)
radiator shim. You can twist the knob off with a set of Vicegrips,
and then substitute a wad of bondo or evern chewing gum (pick your
poison). A replacement from the dealer costs about $1235.

Aren't Saabs quirky? They are great when everything works, but most
things (things that normally don't go wrong in another make of car)
start failing after about 80K miles, and the costs start tearing a
hole in your kids' college funds or your retirement plan.

For example, the speedo in my '96 9000 quit one month after the
warranty expired. The problem was a broken plastic impeller that cost
$5.39. However, the impelller replacement required PULLING THE
ENGINE, at a labor cost of over $500.

When you have finally had enough, try this simple cure:

1. Go to Walmart and buy a 30 lb sledgehammer.
2. Go to your favorite liquor or grocery store and buy a six-pack of
tall boys.
3. Go home and set up a small table near your Saab; put the chilled
tall boys on the table.
4. Starting from the front of the car, bash repeatedly with the sledge
hammer until the car is nothing more than a pile of scarp.
5. Make sure you pace yourself and pause for another tall boy as you
demolish, for all time, the wallet-eating car par excellence.

Hope this helps.

--


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Pearson com
Saab 900 T16 Aero
"bjmpls" <com> wrote in message
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Knackered radiator. The damn thing is leaking. Fortunately today it was dry
enough for me to spot it dripping on the floor and traced it back to the
rad.
I've ordered a new rad from PFS as I'm pretty sure it's that. Will also
replace the 'stat at the same time.

Cheers for all the advice

Mke

com (bjmpls) writes:
 

This is a bit like my C900. The speedo works perfectly, but the odometer has
a problem where if there isn't enough inertia in the gearing inside the
gauge, when the tenth of a kilometre dial hits zero it cogs and stops
rotating. 8-)

End result being that until the next time the car drives over a bump with
enough acceleration being provided by the engine, the odometer stops
clocking over.

I'm going to pull the instruments out soon when I get a replacement set and
see exactly what's broken but I'm sure it's just one tooth on a small
plastic gear, going by my observations of the fault.

Hardly expensive, but it means the car will fail it's next rego inspection
which is due in May next year.

Craig.
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