Ford Explorer: Heat/Ac temp control

Sounds like the blend door problem with your heater. Do a google search
on the newsgroups and you'll see it. It's pretty expensive if you go
through
the dealer for the repair (so I've read)

And tell your friend not to drive with the E-Brake on. On this vehicle
the e-brake
is not part of the caliper assembly. There is an internal shoe/drum brake
assembly within the rotor that is your e-brake. Just thought I'd mention
that
in case you thought you needed to replace the pads and rotors because of
your friend.

Try a sledge carefully around the outer rim of the drum, and turn the rotor
in between whacks. Never had to resort to torch, but be careful. Might
wanna
lookup a good technique to do it.

r/
-IanCT



"Red Jama" <com> wrote in message
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The AC doesn't sound like the usual blend door problem though it bears
having a look at. The actuator and shaft can be seen by lowering the
cubbyhole door. I understand this to be ATC...... I'd be guessing but my
first inclination would be the cabin air temp sensor. Somewhere on the dash
will be a small grille, probably the same colour as the dash (about an inch
in diameter or per side). These can have several different types of failures
including dust bunnies....

For the rear rotors, you can try soaking the "register" on the axle with
penetrating oil - I'm not talking WD40, I'm talking honest to goodness
weasel p*ss. Go around the rotor a time or two with a hammer, medium blows
with a 12 ounce betwixt the studs and then (pulling on one side of the
rotor), a smart blow to the top edge of the "hat" portion - not the "brim".
If you still have no luck, you can warm the rotor - stay as far away from
the axle register as possible but don't go near the swept surface. The idea
is to warm the area around the studs as evenly as possible without warming
the axle. A propane torch works but it is a very cool flame and much of the
heat will transfer to the axle. Oxy-acetylene is better, but we don't want
to heat to a colour change. If the problem is rust in the centre, you should
hear a very slight creak when the rotor is ready to demount. Change the axle
seals at the same time - there's a lot of heat generate by bonehead
manouevers and the seals lifespan will be severely shortened. Having said
that, a friend would insist of having the problem repaired out of his own
pocket and at no cost or discomfort - the brake warning lamp does work,
right?

There will be much more learned by polling the 4WD module or GEM (sorry, no
manuals at home tonight) for stored code(s)..... I don't work on a lot of
these but I understand the usual problem regards an incoherent signal or
loss of signal from the front shaft speed sensor.

Latly, I'd appreciate it if we can keep everything on the NG.... there are a
lot of smart cookies here and many of them have a more personal relationship
with some problems than I do. If I don't respond, others have answered
adequately (or superbly, as the case may be) and all I can add is "me too" -
or.... it may be something I'm not real familiar with and don't want to send
someone on a wild goose chase. Either way, if we keep it on the NG, the
info, questions and ideas are preserved for all to use.....


--
Jim Warman
net

"Red Jama" <com> wrote in message
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