Ford Mustang: Full Throttle Stutter

Most of the "stutter" that I've had in the past was due to ignition -
you probably didn't get wires on the wrong posts (try it sometime on a
car you don't care about - we used to do it in high school when we were
squirrly), but you might try re-seating your wires with good dielectric
grease in the boots, and if that does not work, change out one wire at a
time. You might just have a wire that's not seated well, and a
resultant weak spark.

Other than that, you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator, throttle
position switch, air flow meter, or injector, but I think that at wide
open throttle the only things that are checked are the temp sensor, O2
sensor, and MAF. Maybe clean your MAF next?

Andrew

Larry Dennis wrote:
 

I once had an issue with a car running an Accel distributor cap and rotor.
I'd put the rotor on some time back and ran the hell out of the car, and it
exhibited some of the same issues you're stating. Pulling the cap off (not
fun when it's hot) revealed a totally destroyed rotor and cap assembly.
Replaced the two and had no problems.

It could be a connection between wire, plug, and cap, your coil could be
dying (though my only experience with a TFI coil dying was that it just gave
up one day), you could have mis-gapped (or not gapped) your spark plugs.

You say your 24# injectors have been there for 2 years or I'd ask you if you
put the correct MAF meter on with them.

Oxygen sensors are a routine maintenance item but they're not used in the
open-loop WOT mode anyway, so that shouldn't be creating any problems.

Plenty of things *could* be causing your problems....

JS

"Larry Dennis" <com> wrote in message
news:localdomain... 

Andrew and JS,

Thanks for the responses. I rechecked all the wires, and the wire that goes
from the coil to the distributor was a bit lose and wouldn't give me that nice
click sound. I took it off, and turned it around just to see - and "click".
Also, but some dielectric grease on it. Haven't gotten a chance to run it
yet, but will check it out shortly. However, the post on the ignition coil
looks very worn. If it turns out to be the coil, which do recommend? The MSD
or Crane?

Thanks again,
Larry

In article <fJc_a.1934$uswest.net>, Andrew Paule wrote: 


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It is difficult to produce a television documentary that is both
incisive and probing when every twelve minutes one is interrupted by
twelve dancing rabbits singing about toilet paper.
-- Rod Serling

Larry Dennis wrote: 

let us know, I bet that was your problem. If not start it up and just
sit in the car slowly revving up and down (smoothly) if the tach needle
is even slightly jumpy then you're probably missing on one or more
cylinders.

Lastly triple check the last plug on the passenger side, I also have a
95GT and this plug wire is one HELL of a bitch to get seated... I just
changed mine (see the post "pre-engineering 101" where I let off the
resultant steam from my experience) In the end I used a flat head screw
driver on the elbow of the plug wire boot and one hand stuffed down in
there. This was after using a long pair of channel locks, and ruining
the brand new plug wire trying to get it on. This was after hours of
trying to get it to "click" on with the two fingers I could manage to
get down in there.

Simon,

A Ford engineer is really lucky I don't know where they live. Otherwise,
they would be getting a visit from me and my Big Bat(tm) because of the
spark plug placement. Actually, it's not where they placed the plugs, it's
the placement of pipes and hoses right in freak'n front of the plugs!

As for the stutter problem. The car idles great, and it's smooth acceleration
and needle movement all the way up the tach, unless I have the throttle open
wide. It happened this morning again, after resetting the coil post plug.
Was low on gas, so I stopped in and got some injector cleaner when I filled up.
It happened one more time after the fill up, and now it seems to be accelerating
fine during WOT.

I did fill the tank after swapping the wires out, so maybe I just got some bad
or dirty gas that tank and one of the injectors were clogged. I'll have to see
how it handles over the next few days. If it starts happening again, I'll swap
all the plug wires out Saturday, check each plug (make sure they aren't cracked,
are still gapped right, and not clogged up), and put the old distributor cap and
rotor back in (good thing I'm a bit of a pack rat and don't throw old stuff out
away.) If I can't find a problem there, I'll get a new coil.

Thanks again guys!

BTW, just to keep it clear, I don't drive everywhere with WOT. I take some back
roads to work, and there are a few nice straight aways where I'm usually the
only person in sight. And sometimes, that's a little hard to resist.

In article <com>, Simon Juncal wrote: 


--Larry
--------------------------------------------------------------------
It is difficult to produce a television documentary that is both
incisive and probing when every twelve minutes one is interrupted by
twelve dancing rabbits singing about toilet paper.
-- Rod Serling

Larry Dennis wrote: 

Could have simply gotten low octane gas! 87 will cause knock in mine
every time. sometimes I'll get a tank full that was obviously short of
the 93 premium I always get and i'll get light knock (not as bad as 87
or 89 octane) when driving it hard.

Anyway I just re-read your post and "stutter" could be used to describe
knock or ping. Can you clarify a little? Is it stutter like there's an
interruption in the fuel flow (not much sound to it just loss of power).
Or is there an audible rapid fire clatter/chatter/knock/ping? What
Octane gas do you use?

If it's ping then clean your MAF with some CRC electrical contact
cleaner, and check your air filter.
 

I know just what you mean... my drive home from work includes at least
10 miles of usually deserted reasonably smooth paved back roads. Tonight
I had some asshole in what looked like an NSX or other Acura (tiny
little round headlights) riding my ass right after I got off work... I
was tired and coming up to a rail crossing so I was going slow. The
a-hole was no more than a foot off my rear end. So I slowed to a crawl
for the rail crossing... and then when he started to pull around to try
and pass me right after the tracks (I was still idling in 1st watching
to see what he'd do) I fired it up and left him behind so fast it was
pathetic.