Pontiac: Froze caliper bleeder screw

You could try some penetrating oil and letting it soak for an hour or
two before trying again, but it's probably seized due to galling in the
thread area between the screw and caliper. Best to replace it and bleed
the system. Before you bleed the new unit, remove the bleeder and put
an EXTREMELY thin layer of anti-seize on the threads and re-insert. You
don't want anti-seize in the brake fluid.

Brian Morgan wrote:
 

Brian, I have done brake bleeding via loosing the
brake line going into the caliper and using it as the
bleeder. Use a flare wrench as these can be easy
to round off and then you end up with another head-
ache.

chuck

Brian Morgan wrote:
 

You can heat it a torch. Plumbing propane torch may not be hot enough.
They do sell diff gas (hotter) that can be fitted to your existing torch
head.

Paul


"Brian Morgan" <com> wrote in message
news:V0_Mb.26848$columbus.rr.com... 
the 

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 19:06:18 -0500, "none" <com> wrote:

|You can heat it a torch. Plumbing propane torch may not be hot enough.
|They do sell diff gas (hotter) that can be fitted to your existing torch
|head.
|
|Paul
|
|
|"Brian Morgan" <com> wrote in message
|news:V0_Mb.26848$columbus.rr.com...
|> Hi -
|> I am trying to work on the brakes on a '94 Grand Am. One of the front
|> bleeder screws won't come loose - I've tried tapping it while putting
|> pressure on it with a wrench - no joy. There doesn't appear to be any
|> serious rust, but I can't get it loose, and I sure don't want to replace
|the
|> caliper. Any tricks? Can I heat it with a propane torch without damage?
|> Thanks -
|> Brian

Have you tried repeated applications of a good Penetrating Oil ?


Lg

If he can't unscrew the bleeder screw he sure as hell won't get the hose
loosened.

=========
Harryface
=========

1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE, 3800 V6
_~_~_~_~275,068 miles_~_~_ ~_~_

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:49:40 -0600, Lawrence Glickman
<net> wrote:
 
I always like the little tip on the OA torch. Heat the tip of the
bleeder screw to a bright red, and swat it with a hammer, then put the
vice grips on it and out it comes - better than 90% of the time. Then
get a new bleeder screw and a bit of nickle anti-seize - just a
tootpik tip's worth. 

On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 02:22:07 GMT, clare @ snyder.on .ca wrote:

|I always like the little tip on the OA torch. Heat the tip of the
|bleeder screw to a bright red, and swat it with a hammer, then put the
|vice grips on it and out it comes - better than 90% of the time. Then
|get a new bleeder screw and a bit of nickle anti-seize - just a
|tootpik tip's worth.

I would only worry about annealing the caliper metal by heating it.
Especially in the case of a brake caliper. That isn't a metal part
you want to fail under high mechanical stress.

Indeed, if there is some glue holding the screw, the heat will melt it
and make it easier to get the screw out. I only would approach this
with high caution for the above reason. In fact, I have a variable
torque impact wrench, that has broken loose all kinds of *stuck*
bolts, by incrementally destroying the glue and/or rust.

If you have a caliper fail by breaking under stress, or bending under
stress, you're in trouble Sir.


Lg

Yes, I have been trying penetrating oil. I guess the torch is next.
Thanks -
Brian
"Lawrence Glickman" <net> wrote in message
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damage?