Lexus: Front rotors

>> 


To add one more thing....show me a full "byrd" Colonel that has
actually worked on vehicles. That is what enlisted folks do; they
keep the Army running.
-
--
com
Anti-Spam filter in place--
<delete .remove-this to respond to email>

I'm a retired full "byrd" Navy Captain, and I agree.....I'd sooner take
the word of an E-5 who actually works on vehicles.

That recommendation to use water in brake lines is absolutely bogus. Brakes
work
by friction and generate a tremendous amount of heat. That heat is
transmitted to all brake components including the fluid. If the fluid is
heated to the boiling point (in the case of water, 212 degrees Farenheit)
it will generate bubbles of steam. This dramatically reduces the braking
efficiency and can lead to brake failure. The boiling point of brake fluid
is substantially higher than water.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisure from the air over
time.
If you've ever flushed a brake system (as I have many times) you'll notice
the
fluid looks more like maple syrup than clean brake fluid. Contaminated fluid
leads to rusting of the cylinder walls and pistons in the calipers and can
result
in seizing of the calipers. That is why most manufacturers including
Mercedes
and BMW call for periodic replacement of the fluid. Two years intervals is
the frequent recommendation.

"Curtis Newton" <com> wrote in message
news:com... 

Not to mention 'cold weather' operation. What happens to water below 32
degrees?
"jav" <net> wrote in message
news:ePIsd.719317$..
| I'm a retired full "byrd" Navy Captain, and I agree.....I'd sooner take
| the word of an E-5 who actually works on vehicles.
|
| That recommendation to use water in brake lines is absolutely bogus.
Brakes
| work
| by friction and generate a tremendous amount of heat. That heat is
| transmitted to all brake components including the fluid. If the fluid is
| heated to the boiling point (in the case of water, 212 degrees Farenheit)
| it will generate bubbles of steam. This dramatically reduces the braking
| efficiency and can lead to brake failure. The boiling point of brake fluid
| is substantially higher than water.
|
| Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisure from the air over
| time.
| If you've ever flushed a brake system (as I have many times) you'll notice
| the
| fluid looks more like maple syrup than clean brake fluid. Contaminated
fluid
| leads to rusting of the cylinder walls and pistons in the calipers and can
| result
| in seizing of the calipers. That is why most manufacturers including
| Mercedes
| and BMW call for periodic replacement of the fluid. Two years intervals is
| the frequent recommendation.
|
| "Curtis Newton" <com> wrote in message
| news:com...
| >>>
| >>>I guess you might have thought that i knew this but no i just called a
| >>>friend of
| >>>mine who retire from the army as a full Byrd Colonel in the maintaining
| >>>the
| >>>motor equipment from Tanks to Jeeps. He give me the scoop here.
| >>>
| >>>TURTLE
| >>>
| >>
| >>
| >>ye GAD. Your full "byrd" Colonel is an idiot. Having spent MANY
| >>years in the military myself, I have absolutely *never* heard of ANY
| >>recommendation to put water in a braking system as a replacement for
| >>brake fluid.
| >
| >
| > To add one more thing....show me a full "byrd" Colonel that has
| > actually worked on vehicles. That is what enlisted folks do; they
| > keep the Army running.
| > -
| > --
| > com
| > Anti-Spam filter in place--
| > <delete .remove-this to respond to email>
|
|

"Capt Retardo and the Skidmarks" <net> wrote in
message news:com... 

This is Turtle.

He did not say use it as a everyday thing but if you out in no where and the
adverary is fixing to kill your ass . You can piss in it to get it going and get
home. This is only to get your ass home and not come home in a box. It is tought
that if you don't have fluid for the brakes and need to get home you can use
potiable water to replace the fluid and when the fire in not on your ass any
more. Have the motor pool take it out. the reason they say water for it can be
remove pretty eazy by draining them.

Now i'm not talking about your out riding around looking at the country and have
no brake fluid. Call the Motor pool and send you a gal. of brake fluid out
there.

Now here is another one for you to jump up and down about. If you don't have any
steering fluid you can use the diesel oil like Shell Rotella motor oil in it.
Now like I said before just in a heat of the minute to get home.

If your driving to Sunday School -- No Water. If your driving to a LZ to get
your ass out of a hot zone -- Use anything but water works ok.

TURTLE

Turtle, I can't figure out how to get the Front Rotors off... there is a 5
Nut Device that must have something to do with the 4WD/AWD that After
removing the Nuts still won't budge, and then there's a 2nd piece that is
Bolted from the Back Side to the Rotor itself. How do I get the thing
off?!?!

Turtle, I can't figure out how to get the Front Rotors off... there is a 5
Nut Device that must have something to do with the 4WD/AWD that After
removing the Nuts still won't budge, and then there's a 2nd piece that is
Bolted from the Back Side to the Rotor itself. How do I get the thing
off?!?!

2000LX470 wrote: 
remove the hub/rotor assembly first, then separate
the rotor from the hub.

--
Ben Jerew AKA PolarPuppy
ASE Certified Master Technician
New Country Lexus of Latham, NY, USA
Amateur Off-Roader 93 YJ 4.0l 3spd

my buddy tried to do that but the 2 pieces were "pressed" together so
tight, we couldn't get anything between the 2 pieces, and hitting it with
a hammer and screw driver, wouldn't get ANY separation either. It looks
like there are 2 bumps in between the bolts that we took the nuts off of
that may be 2 bolts holding it on from the other side?!?! How is this
piece put together? Someone said it might be "machine Pressed" on?!?!