Saab: failure to start

Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote:
 

Is that all you did? Anything else?

 

Put the ignition leads on the cap the wrong way round?

 

The order of the ignition leads.

 

No.

--
Grunff

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 23:23:24 +0000, Grunff wrote: 

Not before the failure to start. I also replaced the air filter and
fuel filter after the cap and rotor. However, I tried starting it
after replacing the cap and rotor and that's the first it wouldn't
start. The fuel filter is in the right direction (in fact, the size
different on the bolts ensures that it can't go backwards), and fuel
drops out of the fuel lines at the intake.
 

Yeah, I've re-checked the order probably a dozen times by now. It's
nice having the cylinder numbers and firing order printed right on the
intake there.

The rotor turns counter-clockwise, right?

The cables all sit nicely, not too tight/short or loose/long, as if
they're in the right spot.

Say, Grunff, since you're so well versed in Saabs, would you happen to
know if, from top to bottom, the go to plugs 1234 in that order on
this engine?

I don't think I put them back on wrong, but maybe 12 and 34 are
reversed at the plugs. I'll go check now.
 

Well, with an I-4 there's precisely 24 possible orderings. I could
just start trying them one at a time. Heh. Not fun, but at least
doable.
 

Ok. That's good.

-D

PS. thanks for responding so quickly! (sometimes the time-zone
difference is an advantage :-))

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Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote:
 

Yes, looking from the distributor cap end, anti-clockwise.

 

Hmm...

 

Doesn't sound right. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. Number 1
cylinder is at the timing chain end.

Looking at the distributor cap, take the lead coming out of 3
oclock to cyl 1, the lead at 12 oclock to cyl 3, the lead at 9
oclock to cyl 4 and the lead at 6 oclock to cyl 2. 1-3-4-2.

 

No problem.

--
Grunff

On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 00:01:34 +0000, Grunff wrote: 

You're right. It's 3412. The longer two are on the bottom half of
the guides. I realized that when I went back out to it.
 

Yes.
 

By the cabin, not the headlights. (left, standing by the passenger
panel; right under the number "1" stamped on the intake :-D)
 

Yeah, that's right. Except that this cap has the 12 oclock post at
10:30 or 11:00. However, this offset matches the old one and the
"key" on it lines up with the notch in the metal edge it goes next to.
 

Still appreciating the assistance,
-D

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User stays on success, reboots on failure

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On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 00:54:07 GMT, Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote: 
[...] 

Shame on me for replying to my own post, but I forgot to mention that
I just tried a few other combinations with no noticeable change.

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Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote:
 

So still not working with 1-3-4-2? Strange.

You have spark. Do you have fuel? Turn the engine over for a few
seconds. Then working quickly, remove one of the spark plugs.
Does it smell of fuel? Is it wet?

--
Grunff

On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 00:58:18 +0000, Grunff wrote: 

Correct (on both points).
 

Yes. (I will double check in a moment when someone will turn the key
for me)

What about timing? If the timing is off, then this could be the
result, right? How can I check? How much money would I need to
spend on equipment? (would the equip. be make/model-specific or would
it be usable on my domestic (Ford/GM) vehicles as well?) It'd
probably be better to have a real mechanic check it than try to do it
myself, wouldn't it?
 

Yes. I also checked, earlier, by disconnecting the fuel line at the
intake and watching the fuel issue forth drop-by-drop.

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what he asks for, instead of what he needs. This is very strong
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On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 01:30:38 GMT, Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote:
 

Suppose, for example, the plugs are in the correct order on the cap
but are rotated from the position they are supposed to be at. Would
this work, or would the plugs fire at the wrong time. I'm thinking
that would cause the plugs to fire at the wrong time. Specifically I
did end up turning the rotor a little when I put it on and was trying
to get the spring clips back on cap. Now I think that may be the
problem, and it needs to be reset. Or would the connections and
feedback sensors automatically adjust for that?

-D

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