Maintenance & Repair: Escort 1.6 Zetec poor mpg

"Robert Richards" <ac.uk> wrote in message
news:google.com... 

Firstly what oil was put in- only ever use the correct Ford 5w-30 else
you'll have all sorts of problems.Is the car warming fully up- the
thermostat may have gone west- temp gauge should ideally be at 3pm although
4pm is ok. Second, check the o2 sensor connector clipped to the rad fan
surround for water ingress or corroded connectors. After that you really
need the o2 sensor checked for correct switching to make sure the ecu is
entering closed loop operation. The degree of mpg loss is just that which
would be caused by the engine operating in open loop mode.

Tim..


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Tim.. wrote: 

I really can't understand this fanaticism about precise oil grades.
Firstly, there is no such thing as a Ford engine oil - it's just rebranded.
My Nissan recommendation is SAE 10W/30 to 15W/50. The optimum grade of oil
is very much dependent on average ambient temperatures which are increasing
anyway due to global warming. In any case, if you use garage servicing, you
have little control over the oil grade or brand. In over forty years of
motoring, I've used them all, including straight 30 oil, supermarket oils
and all the top brands, and have taken many cars well over 100K miles
without problems. Any oil will start to degrade after a few hundred miles
and will no longer meet the original specification. The most important
factor is regular oil & filter changes and I do believe that current
manufacturers recommendations are far too long between oil changes. I
certainly can't see why a slight change in oil specification can
significantly affect petrol consumption - it's all a myth.

Terry D.

"Terry D" <com> wrote in message
news:Pwigb.6982$server.ntli.net...
 
rebranded. 
oil 
increasing 
you 

Unless it's a pre 98 zetec :-)

Pre 98 the zetec had hydraulic self adjusting tappets, commonly a garage
would put in 10w40 oil and this would cause the tappets to hydraulically
"lock" temporarially during their operation, due to the oil being too thick,
causing said engine to run like shit. This is why engine oil grade is
frequently mentioned when someone asks why their zetec donk is not
performing to spec.

"Terry D" <com> wrote in message
news:Pwigb.6982$server.ntli.net... 
rebranded.

This is true, however if you use oil sourced from Ford and you have a Zetec
sticking valve problem, it's the dealership's fault, not your own (see
below).
 
oil 
increasing 

Which may or may not be proven, and even if global temperatures as an
average were to rise:

(a) the loss of the Gulf Stream would make the UK considerably cooler.
(b) seasonal variances mean the argument is diddly squat anyway!
 

That's not true. You can specify what oil they are to use, if for some
reason you don't want to use the default option.
 
 

First off, you need to re-read the post - it's not the grade of oil, per se,
it's the problems that can arise from using the _wrong_ grade of oil. For
this particular donk, sticking valves is the problem. For the pre-Zetec-E
variants (i.e. those before the mark two Mondeo, heh), the oil grade is
_vital_ - too think a grade and you can cause all sorts of problems.

--
The DervMan
www.dervman.com

"Terry D" <com> wrote in message
news:Pwigb.6982$server.ntli.net... 
rebranded. 
oil 
increasing 
you 

Mostly yes, and no. I should have correctly said "use any brand of 5w-30
oil". The Zetec engine, especially the early ones were *very* intolerant to
an oil thicker than specified- it causes valve stick, running problems and
generally very high oil pressure.

Tim..


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"Tim.." <com> wrote in message news:<bls68d$cvn$btinternet.com>... 
[Crappy mpg performance] 

I don't know. But the guy at the garage said "Oh, that's special oil
for the Zetec isn't it?" when I handed the keys over.
 

Yep this is fine. Sits at 3-4pm when cruising easily on motorway, 2pm
when sitting in traffic for any length of time, at which point the fan
cuts in.
 

Nothing obvious here...
 

Hmm. Any idea how much this will cost - is it worth just buying a new
one and fitting it?
 
Wouldn't the red light next to the clock on the dash do something to
indicate this was the case (stay on more than 5 seconds after turning
ignition on IIRC)

Thanks for the help!

Robert

"Andrew Jewitt" <com> wrote in message news:<blsi3e$g06bp$news.uni-berlin.de>... 

Well on the back of my owners manual it says 10W40 (admittedly this
was obviously written in by the dealer when the car was new). Those
cars in Halfords say 10W40, Haynes says 10W30 (which I can't find
*anywhere*) and the owners manual itself states a variety of grades as
acceptable, including all those metnioned so far in this thread.
When topping it up I've always used 10W40.

TBH, I don't think it's suffering from sticking valaves or anything
like that as the engine sounds like it always did and there isn't a
particularly strong smell or petrol or anything from the exhaust.

Thanks,

Robert

"Robert Richards" <ac.uk> wrote in message
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news:<bls68d$cvn$btinternet.com>... 
although 

The red light in the clock is only the tell-tail for the immobilizer (if
fitted) or alarm system (more likely on a 93). Ford never fitted a MIL until
1997 or so, so its impossible to know if the ECU has detected a fault unless
you hook it up to a code reader. A failed oxygen sensor doesnt always light
the MIL anyway even on cars with it!

Ask your local garage if they have an o2 sensor tester, inwhich case this
would be the best plan on action to check whether it is working or not. If
it is, next port of call would be the MAF sensor.

I assume you dont have binding brakes or half flat tyres....

Tim..


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