BMW: E30 323i electrical problems

Check to be sure the distributor cap is on the right way. It will fit 180
degrees off. There is a notch on one side - be sure the notch fits into the
little groove for it.

Also be sure the wires are correctly connected to the plugs in the correct
order.

Terry


"Steve Burley" <net.nz> wrote in message
news:U8X2b.14142$tsnz.net... 

New cap is on properly, right way round and leads are in the right order.
I have spark at the plugs too, but car won't fire at all.
Could something have shorted somewhere and maybe affected the fuel system?
I also noticed there is a spade terminal sticking out of the dizzy body just
below the cap with no wire attached - should this be so?

Steve

"Terry" <ca> wrote in message
news:a723b.1538$bellglobal.com... 
the 
rotor 
anyway. 
above? 

Some suggestions: First I would take the VC off and verify valvetrain is
timed correctly; remove the cap and observe the rotor whilst turning the
engine by hand too. Verify fuel by cranking and smelling for gas at the
exhaust or examining the spark plugs for wetness. Starting fluid can be
used, but don't overdo it else you'll strip the cylinders of oil. One shot
while cranking should do it.

Also look for gross intake air leaks and make sure the idle air valve is
opening during cranking or slightly open the throttle manually. After that,
an ignition timing check and a post to rec.autos.tech are in order :-)

Already checked spark plugs and compression - all as expected. All hoses
are ok. Petrol smell at exhaust.
One of my manuals says not to mix up/swap the speed and reference sensors or
the car won't start. I've never touched them but wonder if one or both
could have blown. I'll check the resistance and wiring today and see if
they are ok. That's the last thing I can think of.

Steve

"Misterbeets" <com> wrote in message
news:K%H3b.7411$primus.ca... 
that, 

I've recently gone through a similar frustrating procedure on the M20 engine
in my 1989 525i. If the Bosch Motronic reference sensor were the culprit (as
was the case in my situation, the cable had been damaged in the course of
replacing the water pump) then I doubt that you would be getting spark to
the distributor/plugs.

Have you checked the resistance between the contacts on the Idle Control
Valve? How about the internal mechanical movement of the Idle Control Valve.
Can you borrow an Idle Control Valve from a pal's car to test? Gotta can of
WD-40 at hand? It sounds like you've got a good manual and know a bit about
what you're doing - so I won't try to explain where this gadget is in the
engine room...

After repairing the damage to the valve gear caused by the failure of the
rubber timing belt in my M20, my independent Bimmer mechanic couldn't get
the engine to start, same symptoms as you are reporting. Gas/petrol and
spark in the right relative combination, but no fire. Swapped the Idle
Control Valve off another M20 in the shop for service and it started first
try. Idle Control Valves aren't the most expensive part on the engine, but
still ain't cheap. Whack ' BMW idle control valve ' into your Google
searcher and you'll find plenty of folks willing to sell you a new one.
You'll also find plenty of links to archived usegroup and forum messages
like this regarding the care and feeding of this particular item of
occasional frustration and bewilderment.

Good luck...

Bill K.

"Steve Burley" <net.nz> wrote in message
news:yMN3b.117$tsnz.net... 
or