Chrysler: Driving/maintaining a 1997 Chrysler LHS

"Visen" <scadYYY.eduZZZnospam> wrote in message
news:6VIib.891$bellsouth.net... 
good shape 
that 
owners. 
dealer that 
since we don't 

No. For the mileage on the car, changing all the major fluids (trans, oil,
coolant) is good
preventative maintainence.

Ted

Ted Mittelstaedt wrote: 


I agree with changing the fluids, even (especially) the tranny fluid.
The dealer is thinking of pressure flushing the tranny when they say it
could cause problems. The solution is to never pressure flush a tranny,
especially if it has some mileage on it and you don't know it's previous
flushing history. Flush it by disconnecting the cooler return line and
letting the tranny's built in pump pump the fluid out (as you replenish
from above) so it doesn't create any problems by disturbing residue that
can get caught in delicate spool valves, ports, and such.

Oh - and drop the pan and replace the filter. Use only the metal
replacement gasket *or* the Chrysler recommended tranny pan sealer (not
just generic silicone sealer) - metal gasket is less mess and risk, and
reuseable.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

IF it had 150,000 miles on it and you didn't know the service done in
the past, that would be different, but at your mileage, CHANGE the
fluid & filter in the tranny and all the other fluids where
applicable.





"Ted Mittelstaedt" <placo.com> wrote in message news:<newscache$x9eqmh$8ai1$ipinc.net>... 

"Richard Benner Jr" <com> wrote in message
news:google.com... 

Thanks, can you suggest what type of oil should I buy and bring to the
mechanic to change? I don't know if this engine is 'built for' synthetic or not and
what grade is recommended (I don't have the car manual). I still have a few
gallons of brand new Mobil1 10w-30 synthetic left that I used to sip in my
previous car.

Also what type of tranny fluid and engine coolant would you recommend?
This is my first automatic so I don't have any experiences with this.

Thanks.

Bill Putney wrote: 

I'll admit to no having had many automatics apart, only have done a
complete rebuild on one, but I've never seen one that had enough sludge
inside to cause a problem from a flush. Transmissions don't get the
build-ups that an engine gets from the combustion byproducts. And if
the tranny has enough sludge to cause a problem with a good flush, then
I'll suggest that it needs a complete rebuild anyway.


Matt

"Visen" <scadYYY.eduZZZnospam> wrote in message
news:y%Zib.6727$bellsouth.net... 
or not and 
few 
No engine is 'built' for synthetic - I've used both without problems.

10w30 is the recommended for my 3.5, but I have switched to a synthetic 5w30
in winter(I drive in cold weather alot and leave car outside).
 

I don't use long life coolant - I'd rather flush every 24 months.

As for tranny fluid, I use whatever my mechanic recommends.

James

"Visen" <scadYYY.eduZZZnospam> wrote in message
news:y%Zib.6727$bellsouth.net... 
or not and 
few 

Many people swear that synthetic oil is 1000 times superior and will stop
all
wear on your engine, allow you to run the oil for tens of thousands of miles
with
just filter changes, reduce pollution and save the planet, and get you
elected
Queen of the May.

If your in this boat then go ahead, if it gives you peace of mind it's
cheaper than
paying a counselor.

But the only really clear benefit that everyone agrees on is that synthetic
has
superior cold-start properties, particulary if your in the northern climes
where
the temp goes below zero many times during the winter.

I personally have had 2 vehicles I've own throw rods. (throwing a rod is
one of
the few engine failures that really points the finger to oiling problems)
and in both
cases, rebuilders I queried about it said that both of the engines had known
oiling
problems, ie: oil passages drilled too small at the factory. Neither
rebuilder put
any credence in synthetic oil, and in fact the one rebuilder I used to
rebuild the
engine in one of the vehicles, stated specifically that the warranty would
be voided
if an "extended oil change interval" scheme was followed. (such schemes are
typically propounded by synthetic oil adherants) He didn't care what kind
of
oil was used as long as it meet manufacturers recommendations. (he also
drilled
out the oil passages that were too small)

Some research that has been done and is available on the web on this topic
seems
to show that standard non-synthetic oil will last up to 12,000 miles before
breaking
down and needing to be changed, so I fail to see the justification for using
synthetic
oil just to obtain extended oil change intervals, since you could do it with
regular
oil just the same, if you believe in that sort of thing.

From a cost standpoint as synthetic oil costs about $5 a quart and regular
oil
costs about $1 a quart, there is tremendous pressure on synthetic oil
adherants
to claim extended drain intervals, in order to make the total cost of
synthetic on
par with regular oil. I frankly feel that this makes most extended drain
interval
claims for synthetic rather suspect.

Since you have the oil already, don't waste it. Use it.

Ted

"Matthew S. Whiting" wrote: 

Common knowledge in the industry suggests what I said - not that common
knowledge is always right ('cause 90% of the tranny shops will also tell
you that you can use Dexron™ in the LH trannies which I know isn't
right). Albeit anecdotal, I've seen too many posts about problems after
pressure flushing and not after flushing the "natural" way.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----