Maintenance & Repair: Clutch despair
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Clutch despair
I have just over £1000 having my brakes and clutch sorted on My 1973
Triumph Stag at a Triumph specialist. It only went in for a service 
The clutch had a new master and slave cylinder but it still has a
major problem which I would be most grateful if someone could help me
diagnose.
The problem only seems to manifest itself when the car is fully warmed
up, hence, I guess, why the garage thought it was fixed.
When the car is hot nothing seems to happen when I lift the clutch
pedal to move away in 1st or reverse, then very suddenly the drive is
taken up and we either move off really quickly, or stall.
It really feels like a sticking pedal as I can "Feel" some kind of
resistance through the foot, and the pedal travel is not at all
smooth, but really jerky and difficult to control. The funny thing is
though, if I turn the engine off and then operate the pedal, it is
pretty smooth, so I don't see how it can be a clutch pedal problem. If
I turn the engine on but leave the car out of gear, the bad feeling in
the pedal appears.
As I have just had new master and slave cylinders, it can't be those
(the problem was there before), and I don't understand how I could
"feel" a difference in the clutch pedal if it was something further
down the system, i.e the clutch itself or the gearbox.
Please can someone help me with something I can do to diagnose the
fault.
What could cause a jerky/sticky feeling through the clutch pedal that
only comes when the car is hot, and only when the engine is running ?
Right now I just feel like selling the car, and I simply can't afford
to send it back in the garage having just spent so much, unless I can
be sure of roughly how much more it will cost.
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Re: Clutch despair
On 25 Sep 2003 04:49:26 -0700, co.uk (loz) wrote:
<snip>
Could the rotation of the clutch assembly be twisting the clutch
release bearing/release arm out of alignment and stopping it moving
back and forth freely? I assume the bearing is supposed to slide on
some sort of sleeve attatched to the gearbox.
Regards,
Graham L
http://www.tuneparts.co.uk
http://www.lambdasensor.com
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Re: Clutch despair
>Subject: Clutch despair
It sounds like the clutch release bearing is sticking on the gearbox input
shaft. Puzzling why this would only happen when the engine runs though. It
can't have been the master or slave cylinder because these wouldn't be affected
by whether the engine was running or not as far as I can see. You might want to
ask them to consider that diagnosis and refund that part of your money. Also if
all the clutch components were changed then clearly that part of it hasn't
fixed the problem either. They should fix FOC or refund.
Finally, I'm also wondering if the crankshaft spigot bearing is worn out
causing the gearbox input shaft to wobble when the engine is running. Not a
common fault but easily checked when the clutch is being done. Also easy to
overlook of course as you wouldn't generally check that.
There are a limited number of components in the clutch mechanism so anyone
competent ought to be able to run through them and identify the problem area.
Sounds like you've had parts changed at your own expense based on guesswork
rather than logic. The small claims court is your friend if polite negotiation
fails.
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
I'm not at all sure why women like men. We're argumentative, childish,
unsociable and extremely unappealing naked. I'm quite grateful they do though.
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Re: Clutch despair
"loz" <co.uk> wrote in message
news:google.com...
Was this the problem originally? Has the car always suffered this problem ?
If so, it sounds to me like either the clutch plate / pressure plate itself
is faulty, and binding, or the gearbox input shaft is bent (from changing
the clutch and hanging the gearbox on the input shaft without any bolts in
the bell-housing) but why it should bind only when hot I am not sure.
Tim..
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Re: Clutch despair
On 25 Sep 2003 04:49:26 -0700, co.uk (loz) wrote:
Got any oil leaks ? Could be oil on the plate
But I hate to tell you, sounds like some monkey has either bent your
gearbox input shaft, or the gearbox front bearing is on its way out.
If your garage charges a grand for swapping two masters, then I dread
to think what looking at the clutch costs.
--
Smert' spamionam
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Re: Clutch despair
"loz" <co.uk> wrote in message
news:google.com...
Dosen't fit any definite known set of symptoms, only thing I can think of is
a cracked clutch diaphram, or the spigot bush is missing from the flywheel,
but it could still be hydraulic. On the hydraulic side I would check the
master cylinder pushrod has clearance (ie it allows the piston to return
fully) and the the mastercylnder resevoir cap vent is clear (try just
leaving the cap off for a short test run).
I were charge 1000 pounds for just a complete brake overhaul and new brake
and clutch hydraulics on a Stag I would be furious, anyway you look at it
they must have charged you 400 pounds for labour. As an experienced workshop
manager I would expect a good mechanic to do the lot in less than 5 hours
(30 minutes per front wheel for discs pads and calipers, 2 hours on the rear
brakes and cables , 45 minutes to fit new brake pipes, 45 minutes on
clutch hydraulics, 30 minutes to bleed brake and clutch)
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Re: Clutch despair
On 25 Sep 2003 12:16:31 GMT, comma (Dave Baker) wrote:
Pilot bushing is the first thing that came to mind for me as well.
They are only a few pence and a good shop would have considered this
if the car does not have a floating clutch.
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Re: Clutch despair
"loz" <co.uk> wrote in message
news:google.com...
The cost of new master and slave cylinder would be about £100, easy job-
shouldn't be more than £50 to fit.
Don't know what they did with your brakes but no more than £300 to supply
and fit lots of parts.
The clutch could be one or more faults.
Maybe the clutch diaphragm spring is knackered. The symptoms would be a
sudden release of the clutch, no gentle taking up of the drive (like a
clicky frog spring). It's also possible that a very worn clutch release
bearing and/or friction linings could cause the problem. As suggested, oil
on the linings could cause it to drag then suddenly release. Maybe there's
damage to the gearbox input shaft splines and/or the mating splines on the
clutch driven plate. That could cause the driven plate to jam on the shaft.
When it all gets hot, things expand and maybe makes it worse.
The phospor bronze pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft might be
chewed up and seizing the gearbox
shaft (so rare it's unlikely). There's so many possibilities but they all
lead to one thing - replacement clutch assembly.
While it's apart, check the gearbox shaft for damaged splines, remove the
rear crankshaft bearing block and stick in some new oil seals and a new
pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft.
The cheapest possibility is that your monkeys didn't bleed it properly and
there's air in the system. As you can select first gear from standstill this
is unlikely.
I'd be putting it into one of those specialist clutch centres.
DaveK.
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Re: Clutch despair
comma (Dave Baker) wrote in message news:<aol.com>...
Is it possible that the replacement of the slave cylinder required
separation of the bellhousing from the engine? I'm thinking that the
alignment dowels may have fallen out/gotten pushed through the
bellhousing/something and that the input shaft of the tranny is no
longer aligned with the crankshaft. This can also happen if the
engine and/or tranny has been replaced at some point in time. If the
latter is the case, you should really have the bellhousing dialed in
before you start tearing your hair out.
Granted, this is all based on my experience with American cars. I
have swapped transaxles in VWs before and have never once dialed one
in, and never had a problem. It's all in how precise the machining
is. Maybe someone with some Triumph experience can chime in here and
tell you whether I'm leading you down the wrong path or not.
nate
good luck
nate
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Re: Clutch despair
"loz" <co.uk> wrote in message
news:google.com...
I'm intrigued....If you are anywhere near west london I will look at it for
nothing....
If I can fix it the quote will be reasonable...time and materials only.
I reckon you have a duff master cylinder with the piston sticking in the
bore. I had this on a Dolomite once. Stag clutch hydraulics are a doddle...
Not so sure about dropping the box though. I doubt I'd be economic at that.
Specialist clutch fit place would be best and look at gearbox input shaft
and spigot bearing when its all out. Make sure main shaft rotates freely
relative to input shaft when box in neutral too....
Jonners
Jonners
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