GM / General Motors: Buick Riviera Traction Control Engaging

"Dave Barkley" <com> wrote in message
news:google.com... 

Traction control kicks in when you have no traction. If you have traction
you can move forward/backward. If the front wheels are spinning you don't
have traction. Then what the traction control does is cut a power going to
the drive wheels until it regains traction then the traction control'll stop
doing it's job for that moment in time. I remember driving a 98 Z28 with
traction control and it gave a limited amount of slipping before it kicked
in, the Riviera may be doing the same thing. It sounds like it's working how
it was designed to.

"Phillip Schmid" <com> wrote in message news:<bp6u2p$1j0a1p$news.uni-berlin.de>... 

Like I said in my post, the wheels ARE NOT slipping. Dry pavement,
mellow acceleration, car moves a bit and the system kicks in... That's
not how it's desinged to work. Also, the brakes are applied on this
system - the FSM tell me so.

Dave

Approximately 11/16/03 18:13, Dave Barkley uttered for posterity:
 

Does it tell you how to check the wheel sensors to see if they
are detecting slippage when they shouldn't be? If it ain't
the sensors, the control unit would be suspect. Too bad you
ain't in Kalifornia, all smog test stations now have dyno's
where you should be able to trigger traction control at will.
Otherwise dyno time tends to be a bit expensive.

--
My governor can kick your governor's ass

"Dave Barkley" <com> wrote in message
news:google.com... 


Nah nah nah, you never explicitly said that they weren't slipping. In that
case I agree that's not how it's supposed to work. Like you said before with
the back sensors, I'd probably check those out...but then the back ones
could be working right and the front ones might be reporting a higher spin
rate. Time to check out the FSM. I'd like to hear what comes of this.

"Phillip Schmid" <com> wrote in message news:<bp9i29$1l7p5p$news.uni-berlin.de>... 

Ya got me... I didn't say that originally. I knew what I ment! :P
When I get a chance I'm going to check out the rear sensors. I winder
if I can hook up a DMM and check them out that way. If I read it
correct, the system monitors the voltage (current?) that is produced
at a pickup coil on each wheel. The frequncy of pulses (waveform?) is
what conveys rotation speed. It'd be nice if it's just rusty parts
that need a good scrubbin'. I also know where there's a riv in a
boneyard that may have a donor brake control module. I'll let this
group know my progress but I'm still hoping for a GM tech to say "oh
yeah, I know what causes that".

Dave

"Dave Barkley" <com> wrote in message
news:google.com... 

It sounds like you maybe able to use a DMM but you're going to have to watch
the display closely and have someone spin the tires. If I remember right the
waves'll have a high and a low and from watching it you can see how rapidly
the numbers change on the DMM. It'd most likely be easier on an
oscilloscope, IMO. Maybe you could try disconnecting each one until you find
the trouble one. Say it's one of the back ones and you have disconnected
both of the front ones then it shouldn't happen anymore. Good luck.

Well, if you disconnect any of them, it's not going to happen anymore
because it will detect the open circuit and disable the traction control..

--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from ca
Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/


"Phillip Schmid" <com> wrote in message
news:bpbne7$1mqdjp$news.uni-berlin.de... 
watch 
the 
rapidly 
find 

"Phillip Schmid" <com> wrote in message news:<bpbne7$1mqdjp$news.uni-berlin.de>...
 

Actually, I can't disconnect any part of the system... if I do the
test that occurs at startup will detect component failure and disable
the entire system.

As for the DMM, I have one that will display frequency... my goodness,
try and watch the voltage change! Are you insane man! LOL

Dave