Mitsubishi: 99 Galant with warped rotors

Rotors warp over the years from being machined beyond their legal thickness,
some due to heavy feet, go back thru your car history and look for the
thickest set you can buy that is compatiable with your car, i own a 1986
magna, the 1991 magna had slightly thicker rotors and are legal to use in
this country ( australia ) tho i would go for over machining as the years
past.

Peter

"Doug" <net> wrote in message
news:54Tje.1948$news.prodigy.com... 

In article <54Tje.1948$news.prodigy.com>,
"Doug" <net> wrote:
 

Just about every case of warped roters that I've seen was the result of
improperly and unevenly torqued lug nuts. Most of the air wrenches used
by folks in the auto service biz are not your friends. Whenever I have
my car serviced for something that requires wheel removal, I always
loosen & re-torque the lug nuts to factory specs (found in any cheap
service manual) with a torque wrench when I get home (car jacked up).
If you do this, your warped rotor days will be over!

Also, any rotor will warp if the lug nuts aren't right! No magic rotors
out there.

Geary Morton

Both of the previous posters have missed the mark here. The problem with the
warping rotors is with Mitsu's single piston brake.
DSM (Talon/Eclipse/Laser) people replace the front brakeset with the two
piston unit and it's larger rotor. The two piston brake AKA "Big Brakes" was
stock on the 3000 SL and '92 and up AWD cars.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BigBrakesInfo.html

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BigBrakesInstall.html



"Doug" <net> wrote in message
news:54Tje.1948$news.prodigy.com... 

I understand the reason you loosen the lug nuts before re-torquing, but why
do you jack up the vehicle? This seems to be inefficient and unnecessary.
BTW, I too re-torque after any tire rotation or work after a wheel removal.
It does seem to help, but in and of itself, will not ensure that there will
be no rotor warpage.

Bob

"Geary Morton" <net> wrote in message
news:isp.giganews.com... 

Because the lug nuts seat into a tapered hole (steel wheels) or have a
significant shoulder (alloys), the weight of the car tends to push
outwards against the nuts or rub against the shoulder, throwing the
torque reading off. If the car is not level (side to side), that can
throw it off, too (camber pressure). I know I'm sounding a little picky
here, but the object is to get all the nuts as equally and correctly
torqued as possible.

Driving habits can also exaserbate warping. If you have a long, hard
stop from highway speed, then sit on the brake pedal, say at a
stoplight, you will concentrate major heat to a very small portion of
the rotor. In this situation it's best to let the car creep a little to
spread the heat around, rather than cook the one small area. I
personally have no trouble remembering to do this. Getting the wife to
is another story!

Hey, I'm no expert here - just telling you what has worked best for me.
I learned my lesson a few years back when my Eclipse went in for its
first new set of tires. Within a month my rotors were trashed - all 4
of them! I discovered that about half of the lug nuts were way too
tight. I bought cheap aftermarket rotors from Advance Auto, started
torqueing the nuts, and 50K miles later braking is still smooth. I've
also read many other stories confirming the importance of equal torque
on wheel nuts where disk brakes are concened.

Geary

In article
<tscke.241321$ops.worldnet.att.net>,
"Bob Shuman" <worldnet.att.net> wrote: