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Jeep: 98 Jeep A/C problem

  1. #1
    Vince
    Guest

    98 Jeep A/C problem

    I have a 98 Jeep Wrangler, 4.0 liter inline 6 with A/C that has a
    rather interesting problem. When I have the A/C unit on, so long as I
    sit at idle and motionless, the A/C pump stays on and thee interior
    stays cool. However, once I put it in gear and drive off, no matter
    what the speed is (slow or fast) the A/C compressor kicks off and
    stays off. The serpentine belt was just changed recently, and the
    system was recharged with coolant. The tech who recharged it said that
    he took out as much R134 as went back into it. He put dye in the
    system to detect leaks, but we've not seen any leaks as far as we
    could tell. It's starting to warm up around here again, and I'm
    curious what might be causing the problem. Any ideas?

    Thanks!

    Vince

  2. #2
    Robb
    Guest

    Re: 98 Jeep A/C problem

    well vince, I might need a little more info, but here goes. I'll be that
    it's shutting off on it's low pressure switch. You say you had it
    recharged. They shouldn't have taken out any refrigerant if they were
    recharging it, it sounds like they were trying to detect a leak if they
    added dye. The dye they added, can only be seen by shining a ultraviolet
    light on the spot that is leaking. Not visible by the naked eye. Have
    someone put some gauges on it, and rev the motor to see if it shuts off.
    I'll bet the low side is way low. Also, if you have a chiltons, check the
    wiring diagram, and find the low pressure cut out switch. Put a jumper
    wire across this switch, and I'll bet the compressor doesn't shut off. I
    need to know what your refrigerant pressures are and the outside air temp
    and the temp of the low side (Suction) line of the ac is before I can help
    you further.
    Thanks
    Robb
    --
    Robb


    Message posted via CarKB.com
    http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1

  3. #3
    Vince
    Guest

    Re: 98 Jeep A/C problem

    Hi Robb,

    When I talked to my mechanic friend, he did whatever he does to all
    the cars that come his way. We didn't know if there was a leak or not,
    so he went ahead and hooked it up to the machine, and the machine
    first purged the system of R134, then refilled it. He mentioned at the
    time that the gauge told him that he'd taken out the amount of coolant
    that was the capacity of the system. He then refilled it and added the
    dye as a diagnostic, just in case. We then ran the system at idle, and
    it seemed to cool while sitting at idle. My friend is actually a Volvo
    mechanic and he did this for me as a favor. You know, "Come on in,
    I'll do this for ya for nothing before my shift". Oddly enough, we
    discovered a radiator crack and he replaced the radiator the next day
    since he could order parts for wholesale and not charge me extra since
    he did the labor.


    Anyway, I noticed while changing my alternator that the system seemed
    to be cooling, but I also noticed that so long as it idled, the
    compressor stayed on continuously. We didn't rev the engine or do
    anything except let it idle. Later on I turned on the system to cool
    things down, and it worked for about 15 mins before I started driving
    it, then of course the compressor kicked off and was now blowing warm
    air. The temp at my mechanic's garage was probably in the mid 60's F.
    He didn't have any other gauges hooked to the system except those that
    he uses for the machine to tell how much refridgerant was removed and
    how much was put back into the system. At least none that I know of.
    When he brought my jeep back home to me after he fixed the radiator,
    he asked for a paperclip so I assumed he was using it as a jumper
    somewhere on the system, he said at the time that it was inconclusive
    but that I had some kind of controller problem and to ask "people on
    the net" what might be wrong with it. Hence my post to the newsgroup
    I've had flaky experiences with Chilton manuals in the past for
    other cars, are they good for jeeps? I was thinking of instead getting
    an actual 98 Jeep Wrangler shop manual from Chrysler as I feel it
    would be more in depth, but the price tag for such a critter is $90.
    In your opinion, which would be better?

    Thanks for any help you can give me. I really appreciate it

    Vince


    "Robb S via CarKB.com" <com> wrote in
    news:com:
     


  4. #4
    Robb
    Guest

    Re: 98 Jeep A/C problem

    Hi Vince,
    I know what you are talking about as far as the Chiltons being good or
    not. I have a 89 YJ, and purchased the chiltons and the Haynes and find
    that I have to switch back and forth to find good info, and still it's
    flaky at best. I do heating and airconditoning for a living in commercial
    but not automotive but the controls are the same, but a little bit
    different animals so I'll try and help as best I can. First off, your
    friend sounds like he was doing what he could. I would like to know if
    there was a previous problem with the system, it sounds like there was
    because he was checking it out. Your ac system has a compressor, and a
    discharge (supply) line and a Suction (return) line. The return line is
    larger than the supply line. The supply line goes to a coil in the heating
    ac duct under the dash where air gets blown across it. There should be a
    sensor on the large (return) line with 2 wires going to it. This will be
    the low pressure cut out. If you jumper across the wires and the system
    runs, it could be a bad switch, or you are low on refrigerant. There may
    or may not be one on the small (supply) line, which will be a high pressure
    cut out and functions the same. They should be normally a closed circuit
    unless there is a problem either with the system or the safety switch.
    another scenario, I am curious if the system works in defrost.
    In defrost mode, the air conditioner turns on, because in cooling the coil
    actually collects moisture from the air in the cab. The temp setting on
    heat adds hot water to the heater supplying heat to the cabin, and you
    don't notice the cooling coil being on.
    So, try turning on the defrost, and turning the heat control knob to the
    cold section, and you should get the same thing as the ac being on.
    You could have a switch problem, or possibly even the belt may be loose.
    And when the RPM's go up, it starts slipping. But this is pretty far
    fetched. I'd look at your ac coil at the radiator, and make sure its
    clean. It is possible your compressor clutch may have a problem as well.
    Maybe as the RPM's go up, the clutch disengages.
    Look for those two fittings I mentioned, and jumper across the two wires.
    Without knowing what your refrigerant pressures are or were after he
    charged the system, I can only guess. Those pressures are VERY important
    in troubleshooting what is going on.
    I would buy the Haynes and Chiltons manuals if I were you. They are
    cheaper, and will get you by until you can buy the DC manuals. But I had a
    Ford once, and the manuals were almost the same as Fords, so it's a crap
    shoot if Jeeps are better or not. Write back and let me know, as I can
    give more help with a little more info. Also, do you have a cabin air
    filter? If you do and it is clogged, it will block air flow and cause the
    low pressure switch to cut out......
    hope this helps




    1. Previous problem with system?

    2. what were the refrigerant pressures if you or he knows? There should be
    a high and a low pressure. The machine may have provided it to him, but he
    may not have recorded them. He was (I'm assuming) using a reclaim machine
    to pull out the refrigerant. When he charged it what were the final
    pressures if he remembers...high and low...

    3. with the system in your jeep, DC made alot of jeeps, and the refrigerant
    charge should be weighed in. So basically, a refrigerant 134a canister
    should be placed on a scale, and the system charged to say 2 lbs 6 ounces,
    etc...(reference only). Or the system can be charged using high and low
    pressures and taking a temperture of the large suction line.
    This info in important to troubleshoot. It's either a refrigerant problem
    (lack of) or a compressor problem (not pumping properly) or a control
    problem...faulty control or safety.......
    --
    Robb


    Message posted via http://www.carkb.com


 

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