Toyota Trucks: 98 4Runner Brake Problems

On 1/24/04 6:23 AM, in article httQb.3198$gnilink.net,
"GT" <com> wrote:
 

First thing to check in brake vibration, IMO, is always warped, worn or
scored rotors. (Well, pads is first, but that's a visual inspection,
no-brainer.) Pop 'em off and check them with a gauge, if you can. If they're
really bad, you can just set them on a flat plumb surface and you'll be able
to see the problem.

Don't know how long "long" downhill grades are, but if you're heating up the
brakes significantly, it might make a rotor problem worse by expanding the
rotors unevenly. It'll also make the brakes stickier, which is usually a
good thing, but if you've got bad rotors it will also make the problem
worse. If you're REALLY heating them up, possibly you just need higher-grade
brake pads.

If it's the rotors, you can probably buy OEM-grade rotors for $30 to $40
apiece if you shop around. (You can get them turned, but that's so expensive
nowadays that it's just about cheaper to buy new rotors.) Slotted rotors
will cost twice that or more. If'n it were my truck, after I checked to make
sure everything was tight, tires were properly inflated and in good
condition, wheels were balanced, suspension in good working order (the old
bouncy-bouncy test, check bushings for play) and so forth, I'd put new
OEM-grade rotors on it. If that fixed the problem, swell. If it came back
after a short time (short time being less than two years) I'd figure I
needed a rotor upgrade and go with something higher-tech. If it didn't, then
I'd go with the full rotor/pad upgrade. Sure, I'd be out the seventy bucks,
but sometimes you have to gamble.

D

Check for loose front wheel bearings too. Have you ever repacked them (good
thing to do).

"GT" <com> wrote in message
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road). 
Tech 
heavy-duty 
want 

Dreamer wrote: 

Not being rude, but do you shift to a lower gear to let the engine help
control your speed?

Tom - Vista, CA

On 1/24/04 3:34 PM, in article YxBQb.11461$bg1.6697@fed1read05, "TOM"
<org> wrote:
 

*I* do, but I didn't write the original message.

D

I turn off the O/D when going downhill...manual trans and can't really do
better than that at hwy speeds.


"Dreamer" <com> wrote in message
news:BC385464.2A721%com... 

Long downhill = about 3/4 to 1 mi.
tire pressure is per factory specs. Had new tires put on and balanced about
1.5 yrs ago...no affect on problem. No suspension problems on the old
bounce and look/listen test.
Thanks for your thoughts.

"Dreamer" <com> wrote in message
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more 
road). 
Tech 
heavy-duty 
want 
they're 
able 
the 
higher-grade 
expensive 
make 
then 
bucks, 

Mine's a manual tranny, not a 4x4 and no overdrive though. I've driven on
some long (more than a mile) downhill grades at highway speeds, like on I-5
down around LA area or coming over the Tehachapi pass in CA, and gearing
down was quite adequate for speed control. I also un-learned my bad habit of
using the clutch to coast down hills (I coast on off-ramps to decelerate, it
seemed logical (back when I started driving) to do the same for hills, boy
was I wrong!) Now I'll brake without pushing in the clutch and use the
engine for a majority of the braking power on hills.
What degree of incline are you talking about? 5% grade, 7%, or worse?
Engine whine might be disconcerting but you get used to it.
--
Dee
~Remove all preflight tags before replying by email.~

"GT" <com> wrote in message
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about 
the 
old 
back 

Sorry AUTO trans


"GT" <com> wrote in message
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help