Mitsubishi: 94 Eclipse won’t start-no spark

Sounds like you inherited a headache.

I'm assuming compression is good so you have to examine the spark issue.
There are a few reasons for no spark. One is the coil, as you suspect, but
the cam angle sensor and the ECU will also do that. Pull the ECU out and
physically examine the board. It isn't that hard to do. Look for damage from
acid leeched out of a capacitor.

The cam angle sensor is hard to test. I believe that will throw a code. You
wont know it is throwing the code because you can't start the car. You can
just put it to ACC and connect a scanner to get the code. There is also a
way to pull it without a scanner, but I can't remember how (on the web). You
really want to be sure you know the ECU is good before chasing codes. If the
ECU is bad, it will throw a lot of weird things.

My bet is that it's the cam angle sensor or ECU. Both would cause the
sputtering you talked about. Of course, the timing belt could have been done
wrong too.

For help on any of this, start at [ www.vfaq.com ].

--
Todd Honea

"Nobody U. Know" wrote: 

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.The timing belt wsa replaced about 2 1/2 yrs ago.
I’ve had the car about 1 1/2 yrs.The ECU is out putting no codes- just
a steady pulse from 0-12v (code 1), which according to the book
indicated a good ECU. Also according to the book, the cam and crank
angle sensors for the 1.8 are located inside the distributor. I
haven’t inspected the ECU but I will today. Is there anything else,
like a fuse or some sensor (like the TPS or ISC sensors) that would
cause this. I would hate it to be something simple after I put a new
costly part in. My son was driving, comming to a stop, and it just
died. I’m so desparate, I am even wondering if the timing belt broke.
It shouldn’t have cause its only got 3k miles on the belt. Its just
strange there are no error codes so I’m probably missing something and
its going to be something simple.

I am grateful for the reply and help.

Bill

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I have to agree, if the ECU is outputting code 1, it's toast.

There should be a steady pulse at the scan code output (50 % duty cycle)
when the ECU is operating properly..

When checking the ECU check the caps (round cylinders in the center-ish
of the PCB) to see if they are rounded on the top.
They should be flat, rounding means they are either dead, or soon will
be. Also check the center of the ECU for a broken PCB trace, usually
under a blob (technical term) of what appears to be contact cement.
If you do have bad caps, replace ALL the caps on the board, easy to do
and usually less than $10.00

The crank angle sensor is an opto isolator type detector, easily tested
with a meter, while the engine cranks.



Nobody U. Know wrote: 

"nirodac1" wrote: 

Sorry, I didn’t explain it correctly. It is a series of pulses, about
1 a second, where the needle on the meter constantly deflects from
0-12v (code 1). A no code, in which the meter needle stays at 12v,
would indicate a bad ECU, according to the Haynes book. What I meant
by no codes is that there are no other fault codes displayed after the
constant series of pulses, like no more codes stored in the ECU. I
took it out today and noticed nothing unusual. The timing belt is not
broke as I saw the cam move thru the oil fill hole while my son
cranked the engine. Other than the ECU or distributor, is there
anything else that would prevent the computer from giving the command
to spark, a sensor or anything? I measured resistance of coil primary
and secondary and insulation resistance. When I measured coil
secondary terminal (high tower) to ground I got a value of 300k. I
would think this should be infinity. Any ideas?

I appreciate the help. I have normally done most of the work on my
cars, but this one is kicking my butt.

Bill

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Cam angle sensor? On that car is is built into the distributor. Was the
"new" one a used or refurbished one? Did a wire come loose?
--
Todd Honea

 

I should have added, I've been in this situation before. My cam angle sensor
died. I didn't get the code until the car started for a few seconds. Then I
cleared it and it still wouldn't start. It did the same thing a couple of
times until I replaced it. On the 3K/VR4 it is seperate, but $$$. It fixed
the problem.

--
Todd Honea
"Nobody U. Know" <com> wrote in message
news:Zd9Vd.699$columbus.rr.com... 

Well I don't have the 94 manual, but I do have the 91,92,93 manual. It
should be close but only use these comments as a guide.


The primary of the ignition coil should be between 0.9 and 1.2 ohms,
measured between the read and black wires of the 2 pin connector at the
distributor
The secondary should be between 0.77 and 0.95 Kohms, measured between
the red wire of the 2 pin connector and the center tower of the
distributor. Did you say you measured 300K. Check again.

The coil is controlled by a transistor, which is controlled by the ECU.
With a volt meter on pin 6 of the 6 pin connector (and ground), you
should see a pulse train as the engine cranks over. This would be the
ECU trying to fire the transistor, to fire the coil.

To test the transistor do this (from the 91 service manual). First
disconnect the two connectors at the distributor (one has two pins, the
other 6)

Connect the negative side of a 1.5 volt battery to pin 5 of the 6 pin
connector at the distributor (black wire)
Connect the positive side of your analog ohmmeter to the same pin.
Connect the negative side of the meter to the white /black wire on the
two pin connector at the distributor.
Connect the positive side of the battery to pin 6 of the 6 pin connector
(green yellow wire)
The meter should show continuity or low resistance when the positive of
the battery is connect to pin 6, and high resistance when disconnected.
The transistor can be tested with an ohm meter. The base is attached
to pin 6 (6 pin connector), the emitter to pin5 (6 pin connector) and
the collector to pin 2 of the 2 pin connector

Pins 3 (crank sensor) and pin 4 (TDC) are the opto outputs from these
sensors, and should show a pulse train as the engine is cranked, use a
voltmeter to measure this. Pin 2 has 12 volts that powers the opto
sensors (in the engine run position).

Good luck

wsnwill wrote:
 

"nirodac1" wrote: 

You guys are great. When my ex told me that the shop had put a
distributor, she said it was used and wasn’t exactually for an
Eclipse. It came out of a Talon or something else along those lines,
she didn’t know. She got it for a $100 so as long as it worked she was
happy. So that might be part of the problem. I will check today to see
if it is getting a pulse from the ECU. I had already made up my mind
to get a distributor first, cause remembering back when I first put
the meter on to check the codes, I got confused with the initial code
1 (didn’t realize it did a self check first) but now distinctly
remember it outputed a code 20 something. As far as a loose wire
inside the distributor, I couldn’t get the botton screw out of the
cover inside, but when I take it out I will check. The screw head was
stripped out a little and the screwdrive wouldn’t get a good grab.
Regardless, loose wire or not, I will probably just put the rebuilt
one in. We’ll see. There is a chance of rain today but I will let you
all know how it went.

Again, thanks. The level of help is tremendous.

Bill

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