Toyota: 94 Corolla: Weak radiator fans?

I also have a 94 Corolla. Mine has always ran at normal temperature.
The temp. indicator stays at the 45% mark once the engine has reached
operating temperature. To check your fan just let it sit and idle for
4 to 10 minute and you will hear the fan kick on. The temp indicator
will be about 55 to 60% when this happens. It should run for a minute
or two then shut down.

The higher speed fan will kick on when you have the air conditioning
running. I can't remember if it kicks on and off with the compressor
or not.

I had the toyota mechanic replace my water pump as a preventive
maintance. The was done when he installed the new timing belt at
105,000 miles.

I think the coolant may have a small amount of lubricant for the water
pump seal. I tried straight water in a older car I once owned and the
seal started leaking within a few days.

Be sure your antifreeze coolant is a 50/50 mix with distilled water.
The 50/50 mix works best but you can also check the coolant to see if
its good down to 0 or - 5 degrees fahrenheit. Always mix the water
and coolant before pouring it in.
If you plan to replace the coolant be sure to use a radiator cleanser.
Corollafan

On 8 Sep 2003 21:00:14 -0700, com (kjack1) wrote:
 

On 8 Sep 2003 21:00:14 -0700, com (kjack1) wrote:
 

Unless you are stuck in stalled or very slow moving traffic, the
fan(s) don't even come on that often.

Well if the fans seem to be working I don't think
they are a problem. I suppose they could have bad
bearings or a corroded contact or worn brushes
(I haven't checked, do these fans have brushes?).
But then they wouldn't appear to be working. And
as nullpointer comments, they aren't always required.

So you got a new pump. Let me back up a bit here.
 

Do you mean the leak in the new pump or the original pump?
And then I would have to ask "what small hole?"

You are now both overheating and leaking?

I doubt the fans are the problem if you can actually see
them operate properly without you intervening (to bypass
a switch say).

Maybe they didn't bleed air out of the cooling system
properly when they put the new pump in? I doubt you
could overheat so much as to damage the pump but possibly
the seals. Maybe the pump wasn't the original problem?
Maybe a bad thermostat or something else?

Now Corollafan commented on lubrication in the coolant
but there are several reasons not to use water. Antifreeze
has both a lower freezing point and a higher boiling point.
Both good things. Less freeze damage, less boil over.
It also inhibits corrosion. Getting the mix right is important
because it has a funky corrosion curve. Too little or too much
can result in accelerated corrosion.

Need more info. on the original problem and the new problem.
I doubt it is the fans. Maybe they are trying to shift the blame
for a bad pump, maybe they misdiagnosed the original, maybe they
did a bad install and they are trying to recoup some money by
doing the fans?

Steve


"kjack1" <com> wrote in message
news:google.com... 

red rover wrote: 

On engines where the thermostat regulates cooled coolant re-entering
the engine, there are no air bleeds.
 

The pressure cap is what really raises the boiling temperature of
water from about 220 degree to about 255 degrees. Ethelyne glycol
does lower the freezing point of water, irrespective of the pressure
cap. Ethelyene glycol INTERFERS with pure water's ability to absorb
and release heat ... which is why you should not exceed the 50/50
solution.
 

Did anyone bother to flow test the radiator?
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"
 

"Philip®" <net> painstakingly pecked in
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Then the Honda B and D-series auto engines must be exceptions.

On those engines, the lower rad hose goes to the thermostat at the rear of
the block. The air bleed bolt is at the upper rad hose, located at the rear
of the head, forward of the thermostat.

People tend to get confused by this arrangement, as the lower hose at its
most visible point appears to sit higher than the upper hose upper end.

--
TeGGeR®

Tegger® wrote: 

When the highest point of the radiator tank is still lower than the
highest point in the cooling system, then an air bleed is desireable
particularly if the thermostat is that high point and regulates hot
coolant exiting the cylinder head. This is differenct from engines
that regulate cold coolant returning to the engine block.
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

"Philip®" <net> painstakingly pecked in
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True. But I was giving an example disproving your assertion that:

"On engines where the thermostat regulates cooled coolant re-entering the
engine, there are no air bleeds."

In the engines I gave as examples, there IS an air bleed.

As you also say, it is the high point location that determines air bleed
requirements, not which way the coolant flows. The MR2 had three high
points, and thus three bleed points.

--
TeGGeR®

"Philip®" <net> wrote in message > 

The pressure cap will allow higher pressure but that doesn't negate
the fact that ethelyne glycol has a higher boiling point than water.
Isn't the boiling point of water 212F? EG can buy you another 10F to
20F before it boils.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm

Steve