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Corvette: 93 headlights

  1. #1
    Russ
    Guest

    93 headlights

    When my 93's headlights rotate the motors seem to stay on much longer than
    needed, does anyone know if there is a timing adjustment for these as I
    didn't see any limit switches?



  2. #2
    John
    Guest

    Re: 93 headlights

    The manual show a device called the "headlight control module" and says it's
    solid state. I suspect it detects the sudden change in current when the
    headlight gets to end-of-travel. It then shuts off the motor. The module is
    located on the left side of the car bolted to the wheelhouse front panel (in
    front of the left front wheel). No troubleshooting information about taking
    longer than normal. My headlights take longer. I just assumed it is old
    and slow, just like me.
    John
    "Russ" <com> wrote in message
    news:3fbbf474$txucom.net... 
    than 



  3. #3
    Charlie
    Guest

    Re: 93 headlights

    "Russ" <com> wrote in message
    news:3fbbf474$txucom.net... 
    than 
    I had that happen in mine, used to continue to sound like it was closing.
    Then it started hanging up from time to time. I had noticed some yellowish
    granuals around the motor mechanism. The gears were going out. I ordered
    the brass set from Eckler's and replaced them. Now they run as when new.
    The gear GM uses is plastic and the gear that turns it is metal, after a
    while it fails on every C-4. If you take it to a shop or dealer, they are
    going to replace the motor, which is a minimum 6 or 7 times the price of the
    gears plus labor. My new gears will last much longer and the new motors
    will have the same problem in a few years. It wasn't that hard of a job and
    took around 3 hours. If you decide to try this and need anything, you are
    welcome to use my email and I'll do what I can.



  4. #4
    Mike
    Guest

    Re: 93 headlights

    In <3fbbf474$txucom.net>, "Russ" <com> writes: 

    Hi Russ,

    Here's the whole nine yards.

    You are nearing a complete failure of the gearbox(s).
    No limit switches. The control unit senses the current spike
    when the headlamp bucket reaches the end-stop. Lacking
    that, a timer eventually kills the power. When the guts of
    the gearbox start to fail, the headlamp reaches limit then
    the gearbox slips--further grinding itself apart. Eventually
    the timer circuit shuts off the motor. (Sound familiar?)

    At the dealer, about $ 550 with labor. (Do not accept
    any repair that includes an used headlight assembly--it
    will soon fail) You can "advertise" for someone to do
    the repair. Chris Cook in Indianapolis used to do these
    at $ 75 per gearbox so $ 100 is probably a reasonable
    price. Post queries in <rec.autos.sport.info> and
    <alt.autos.fiero>. Eckler's has a rebuild for $ 130 + 100
    core. But, most of the work is in removing the gearbox
    so, once you've got it out go ahead and do the repair
    yourself. New motors are about $ 345 each but you
    buy the same failure prone design.

    The gearbox(s) probably have hardening / disintegration of
    the packing in their center cavity. Eckler's # 29304 repair
    kit for five bucks provides the fix. (This kit has three delrin
    rollers to replace the "crumbs" inside the gearbox.) This
    "locks up" the gearbox and removes all slip from the system.
    While not the "engineered" solution that GM intended, this fix
    works well, and will probably last longer than a new headlamp
    assembly or new motor.

    Occasionally the metal worm (motor shaft) chews the teeth
    off the large nylon gear. Eckler's and Mid-America both sell
    replacement gears--metal for about $ 60 and nylon for about
    $ 25. They also throw in the three delrin rollers with this gear.
    These kits don't come with instructions, making the five buck
    kit better for the uninitiated.

    The instruction sheet with Eckler's $ 5 kit is easy to follow
    (after you get the headlamp assembly torn down.) Be very
    careful with step #4 (Fig. 3). The motor screws and gearbox
    housing have a dissimilar-metal corrosion problem. It's very
    easy to sheer a screw. I think it's better to gently work the
    large gear out of the housing without loosening the motor from
    the gearbox. If loosening the motor becomes necessary:
    1- Scrape off all paint from around the screw heads
    and opposite ends of the screws. Then wet the screws
    with penetrating oil for a day or two before you try to
    loosen them. (try to keep the penetrating oil off the seal
    between the motor and the gear housing)
    2- If your vocabulary includes four-letter words, have
    small children cleared from the area while you loosen
    the motor screws. If you sheer one of these, you add a
    couple of hours (and "great grief") to the job!

    Hope this helps.

    Regards, "Mike"
    -- mikeellison3xxxatzzzyahoo.com --



 

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