Corvette: 93 headlights
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93 headlights
When my 93's headlights rotate the motors seem to stay on much longer than
needed, does anyone know if there is a timing adjustment for these as I
didn't see any limit switches?
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Re: 93 headlights
The manual show a device called the "headlight control module" and says it's
solid state. I suspect it detects the sudden change in current when the
headlight gets to end-of-travel. It then shuts off the motor. The module is
located on the left side of the car bolted to the wheelhouse front panel (in
front of the left front wheel). No troubleshooting information about taking
longer than normal. My headlights take longer. I just assumed it is old
and slow, just like me.
John
"Russ" <com> wrote in message
news:3fbbf474$txucom.net...
than
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Re: 93 headlights
"Russ" <com> wrote in message
news:3fbbf474$txucom.net...
than
I had that happen in mine, used to continue to sound like it was closing.
Then it started hanging up from time to time. I had noticed some yellowish
granuals around the motor mechanism. The gears were going out. I ordered
the brass set from Eckler's and replaced them. Now they run as when new.
The gear GM uses is plastic and the gear that turns it is metal, after a
while it fails on every C-4. If you take it to a shop or dealer, they are
going to replace the motor, which is a minimum 6 or 7 times the price of the
gears plus labor. My new gears will last much longer and the new motors
will have the same problem in a few years. It wasn't that hard of a job and
took around 3 hours. If you decide to try this and need anything, you are
welcome to use my email and I'll do what I can.
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Re: 93 headlights
In <3fbbf474$txucom.net>, "Russ" <com> writes:
Hi Russ,
Here's the whole nine yards.
You are nearing a complete failure of the gearbox(s).
No limit switches. The control unit senses the current spike
when the headlamp bucket reaches the end-stop. Lacking
that, a timer eventually kills the power. When the guts of
the gearbox start to fail, the headlamp reaches limit then
the gearbox slips--further grinding itself apart. Eventually
the timer circuit shuts off the motor. (Sound familiar?)
At the dealer, about $ 550 with labor. (Do not accept
any repair that includes an used headlight assembly--it
will soon fail) You can "advertise" for someone to do
the repair. Chris Cook in Indianapolis used to do these
at $ 75 per gearbox so $ 100 is probably a reasonable
price. Post queries in <rec.autos.sport.info> and
<alt.autos.fiero>. Eckler's has a rebuild for $ 130 + 100
core. But, most of the work is in removing the gearbox
so, once you've got it out go ahead and do the repair
yourself. New motors are about $ 345 each but you
buy the same failure prone design.
The gearbox(s) probably have hardening / disintegration of
the packing in their center cavity. Eckler's # 29304 repair
kit for five bucks provides the fix. (This kit has three delrin
rollers to replace the "crumbs" inside the gearbox.) This
"locks up" the gearbox and removes all slip from the system.
While not the "engineered" solution that GM intended, this fix
works well, and will probably last longer than a new headlamp
assembly or new motor.
Occasionally the metal worm (motor shaft) chews the teeth
off the large nylon gear. Eckler's and Mid-America both sell
replacement gears--metal for about $ 60 and nylon for about
$ 25. They also throw in the three delrin rollers with this gear.
These kits don't come with instructions, making the five buck
kit better for the uninitiated.
The instruction sheet with Eckler's $ 5 kit is easy to follow
(after you get the headlamp assembly torn down.) Be very
careful with step #4 (Fig. 3). The motor screws and gearbox
housing have a dissimilar-metal corrosion problem. It's very
easy to sheer a screw. I think it's better to gently work the
large gear out of the housing without loosening the motor from
the gearbox. If loosening the motor becomes necessary:
1- Scrape off all paint from around the screw heads
and opposite ends of the screws. Then wet the screws
with penetrating oil for a day or two before you try to
loosen them. (try to keep the penetrating oil off the seal
between the motor and the gear housing)
2- If your vocabulary includes four-letter words, have
small children cleared from the area while you loosen
the motor screws. If you sheer one of these, you add a
couple of hours (and "great grief") to the job!
Hope this helps.
Regards, "Mike"
-- mikeellison3xxxatzzzyahoo.com --
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