Nissan: 92 maxima idling and jerky acceleration

Hi all,
Just wanted to clarify, "jerky acceleration". It is as if the car has
a sore throat while accelerating. The acceleration is pulsating and
not smooth.

Also, I dont have a problem starting the car.

Thanks again for any advice.

Rusa


com (Rusa) wrote in message news:<google.com>... 

On 13 Jan 2004 11:30:21 -0800, com (Rusa) wrote:
 

Most unlikely for an air filter to do any damage, it may allow small
particles though which could cause more wear over 10's of thousands of
miles, it may clog quicker or be more restrictive to begin with in
which case you lose a bit of power at high revs.
 

Check the AFM connector is properly connected and the inlet duct has
no leaks. It it's a flat rectangular panel filter check you put it in
the right way up.

There do seem to be some claims that using carb cleaner to clean any
lint or dust off the hot wire that can be seen in the small hole off
to one side in the AFM works wonders. I would not advise any attempt
at removal of the hot wire module from it's alloy body. NissTech says
it should be heated after switch off to burn off any deposits but I
can't find any mention of this in a '91 200SX turbo RS13 Nissan
workshop manual or the supplement. Nor in the later '94 200SX S14
turbo manual, the bottom line in that manual says check the hot wire
for damage or dust. If it was supposed to burn off by some means
there would be a fault finding guide to whatever had gone wrong with
that system to allow the accumulation of dust.

--
Peter Hill
Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header
Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Rusa wrote:
 

Yep, the symtoms you describe sound like AFM problems, hope you saved ~$500
on that air filter :-)

Any other junky tuneup parts on the car? That's where I'd start...

--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

Peter Hill wrote:
 
 

snip.
 


So if his crap on the wire causes problems, why wouldn't a crappy air filter
allow too much crap to get onto the wire and ruin the meter?

I've seen a BUNCH of AFM's ruined from cheap airfilters and wouldn't be
shocked if this one was ruined as well.


--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

Go to autozone and see if they will see if your ECCU (computer) has
any codes that relate to this problem. If there are none I would take
it to a shop for a diagnosis. There are several sensor circuits that
have to do with the Idle. One being the sensor that tells the ECCU how
hot the engine is for example. All will affect the idle.

I am assuming that when you replaced the filter the first time you
didn't pull and hoses or wires off.
It could be assocated with the filter change or it could be something
else decided to malfunction.

When you take it in, choose a shop that is modern, fairly large and is
known to have been around for several years. Ask your friends if the
have one to recommend.

Sorry but without codes its a crapshoot as to what signal is messed
up. Even then it might not be the sensor itself but a bad connection
or a bad ground somewhere. Or you might have got a bad tank of gas or
something not even related to the filter.

Pappa Ray

Thanks all ! No, the check engine light does not come on. I havent
changed any ignition-related parts on this car - spark plugs,
distributor cap etc. I did not pull any hoses or wires.

My car has 100K miles. I don't want to believe it was caused by the
air-filter change since I had the aftermarket (STP) air-filter on for
only 4-5 days before the problem started. I am guessing it is
unrelated to the air-filter change. The way I understood the AFM
damage was it was a gradual process? Any other way to determine it is
the AFM. I read in this newsgroup that AFM damage will cause the RPM
to cap off at 2K or so. I am hoping I can try to pull the trouble
codes myself by using some of the other postings on this newsgroup

Rusa

com (Papa Ray) wrote in message news:<google.com>... 

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 20:36:48 -0500, Steve <com> wrote:
 

and how many AFM's and other expensive electronic items have been
junked to no effect, with the poor sap of a customer picking up the
bill for the shops inablity to properly test and diagnose a fault?
How often do I see someone posting to alt.autos.nissan with a tale of
woe that some shop has charged them for the replacement of $100's of
parts and still not fixed the fault?

--
Peter Hill
Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header
Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Rusa wrote:
 

Nope, throw a hand full of dirt into one and it's a done deal. ;-)

Maybe it was close to the end and this filter finished it off?
 

That's only if it's -totally- dead i.e. no signal whatsoever.

One thing you can try, see how it runs with it unplugged. If it idles good,
my money is on the AFM.
--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com