Toyota Trucks: 90 & 01 4Runner spark plug change - hard?

I can't comment on the '01, but on the '90 V6 you won't need any special
tools, just patience, and the right combination of socket extensions. For
the drivers side, take the air intake ducting off to make room.. Nothing to
take off on the other side..

Buy (if you don't already have) a spark plug socket wrench because it will
have a rubber insert that will hold the plug as you withdraw it and as you
insert the new plug.

Also, it's a good idea to blow out the recesses before you remove the plugs.
Keeps crap and crud from getting into the cylinder.

Put a little anti-seize compound on the threads before you install the new
plugs.

Bearman


"Thomas" <net> wrote in message
news:W7xSb.41$uswest.net... 
2001 
car 
must 
the 
Auto 
worth 
of 
(only 
I 

"bearman" <com> wrote in message
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plugs. 

Excellent advice, Bearman. It took me over two hours to get out a hard to
reach plug that had seized up here recently. Truly, it was a miracle that I
got it out at all without breaking it or rounding the nut. So, you can bet
I am now a big fan of anti-seize on my new plugs.

I like the blowing out the recesses advice to.

Make sure your socket is six-point. I think all the plug sockets are - but
if you put a multi-point deep socket on a seized plug and it slips, you will
be in a whole new ballgame. Six-points are less likely to slip and round
the nut.

If the '90 is like the '88 (same engine) -- and I imagine it is -- the No. 5
plug is a witch's tit to replace. The vacuum hoses, charcoal canister, reed
valve, and a/c lines all get in the way. You will need some extensions and
a u-joint or two to get it out without removing anything. As the other
fellow said 2, 4, & 6 are 'cake' once you remove the air handling stuff. 1
and 3 are grinning at you from the get-go.

Good Luck,

Luther

Thomas <net> wrote: 

I have that engine in a '90 pickup. I tried changing the plugs myself
once, and managed to lose the plug socket after the first 2 or 3 plugs.
on top of the exhaust manifold in a place where it proved impossible to
get out, up or down. As far as I know, it's still bouncing around in
there. So I paid somebody else to finish.

I have another set, and a new socket that stays on my wrench, and I'm
planning to give it another try, if it warms up a little out there.

Does anybody recommend using anti-sieze stuff or anything on the
threads? I have nightmares about VW plugs tearing out the threads in
the head when unscrewed. Unbolting head, drilling and retapping and
insert-adding: money more. Ahh -- I've read the rest of the thread just
now and learned that yes you would recommend that. Now I'll have to go
look for some.