Nissan Maxima: 89 se, where to buy both throttle body gaskets?

2cents wrote:
 

If the gaskets are really this hard to find and the old ones didn't
"shread", put a light coat of RTV on each side of the gasket (ultra grey
would work fine) and put it back together. Same with intake gaskets, these
don't have a bunch of pressure on them and I've never had problems doing
this when the gaskets were hard to get.

--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

Thanks Steve,

I had tried to reach your company late Friday to ask questions, but I had
called after closing time.

So if you are reading this... & wish to reply... here are a few
questions.

Are the Sorensen injectors good ones? New ones from Autozone appear to be
low in price (competitive with rebuilt).

Would you recommend replacing all the injectors on a high mileage car
(230,000)? I have the top intake chambers off & am replacing all the vac
hoses, egr, and pcv valves in an attempt to fix what seems to be a vac
leak affecting idle & below 2500 rpm performance. All the injectors
'click' uniformly but would hate to go through this work & have an
injector fail in the next few months.

Are new injectors prone to fail as quick as my old injectors might fail?


Is there equivalent generic O-rings for the injectors?

Do you have a favorite site to order parts from?

An injector rebuilding company said that there is no difference between
'blue' & 'black' injectors & a mixture of injectors would work OK on my
engine. Doesn't seem right does it? If true why worry about color type?

I know that's quite a few questions to ask but when you want to do the
'right' repair & save money at the same time
it gets to be frustrating trying to find good sources & correct
information.

Thanks. Jerry

Check with NAPA for the head set that includes all those gaskets and
o-rings you mention

2cents wrote:
 

"2cents" <ispwest.com> wrote in message
news:talkaboutautos.com... 

Wow. I bought both for my '91 from a dealer locally, and it wasn't any
problem at all. They did have to order them, but I was able to get them
individually. I bet your dealer CAN do that as well, but is choosing not
to. They'll make more money on the kit (obviously).


Bill G
'91 SE Auto
168,256 miles

 

"2cents" <ispwest.com> wrote in message
news:talkaboutautos.com... 

If you're already going to be in there, and the extra cost isn't a problem,
then go ahead and do it. This engine will get you over 300K without too
much difficulty.

 

Well, "quick" is a relative term here. 230,000 miles is not "quick" at all.
In fact, it's quite good for injectors. If you're expecting another 230,000
out of the new ones, you may be disappointed. But they should last as long
as the originals.

 

Why not use the ones that come with the new injectors?

 

I bought my injectors from the dealer. I figured it was too important a
part to get a rebuilt, and the prices were close enough that I went with
OEM.
 

Everything I've read is that you should NOT mix the colors. There are
subtle enough differences that the ECU will have trouble tweaking the flow.
The mixture will never be quite right and the O2 sensors will keep feeding
this info back to the ECU, which will keep trying to change the flow, and
may never succeed. If you're replacing all 6, then make sure the colors
match.


Bill G
'91 SE Auto
168,256 miles

2cents wrote:
 

No.
 

We call them "squirt guns" because of their spray pattern. Instead of a nice
mist, the shoot gas like a squirt gun. I've never seen a car idle right
that has them.
 

Why? Are any of them bad? I'd rather get someone like http://www.ptrsds.com/
to clean and test them than buy junk new or rebuilt ones.
 

It could be the intake gasket causing this too.

All the injectors 

I'd rather have 230K nissan ones than new autozone ones.

 

They won't work right new.
 

Try courtesy nissan online, real nissan parts.

 

It's not right. If you mix injectors with different flow rates, you get
unequal mixture distribution problems that can only be solved with another
set of injectors.



--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

Is there a 'proper' way to separate the electrical connectors? I've always
'picked' at the wire clip until they separate. Don't want to mess up the
injector connectors if I can help it.

2cents wrote:
 

That's all you can do. PITA the way those are made. BTW the injector
conectors on my own Z had no wire clips on them for over 5 years and they
never gave any problems. I'm not sure why they make them so "bullet proof"
to get off.
--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com