Audi: 88 Audi 100 1.8E oil light flicker at hot idle

Hi!

Ronny Svedman wrote: 

Nope. The "cheapest"[1] was the first from 82/83 with a
75hp (70hp Swiss version) 1.8l 4cyl carburated version...
 

Running at the minimum mark should never damage the engine (if that's
your only problem). I numerously ran "out of oil" (dry dipstick), never
had a problem with such an engine (DR) and sold it with 390tkm. Bone
dry and as fast as from the factory...

 
+ 

The Audi has a two step "trigger" 1.8bar for above 2000rpm and 0.3bar
for
below. A few seconds below 1.8 and above 1bar at (140km/h>3000rpm)
should
not damage anything but...
 

Def'ntly. Esp. when I read:
 
+ 
+ 

100% yes. Thats 99% the reason you burn oil at all on the "first" longer
trip among a lot of short ones.
 

No. See above.
 

Maybe, but only if the oil consumption raises from "immeasurable"
between
changes to "recongnisable". (You did not give WHAT oil you use at the
moment.)
 

I ran semi 10W-40 from Walmart for years and it worked ok. And my
change intervals were around 50-60tkm too. YMMV. When the oil is not
used and not topped up (since there is no need to), then with a slightly
better oil, you will sleep better when regularly apply change intervals
in the 50thousands...


HTH
So long!
Ero.

P.S. [1] "Cheap" is relative... that one used 6.5l/100km in summer
and 7.5 in winter...

--
Ero Rademer ANTISPAM in effect.

On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 de wrote:
 

Must have been the cheapest in 1988 anyway =)

Argh! that's gotta be a slug..
 

That is useful info.
 

1 litre oil to 150 litres petroll.. that has to be
"recognisable" already

that poor little engine sure has a hard life in the heavy car.. lots of
revving and full throttle accelerations.
 

I guess i'll go for 15w50 then, I whip the shit out of the engine way too
often, it's just too small for the big car body...

amazingly enough the lifters are silent after just a few seconds on a cold
start, not at all like other audis i've seen, thats why I was surprised to
see it has low oil pressure. Maybe i should get an oil press. gauge so I
can see whats happening.. Could be the sensor has stuck in "high" mode or
something.

By the way: I hear a "bearing" kind of rattle at idle, that goes away when
I press the clutch.. is that the clutch bearing, and how loud does it get
before seizing up and wrecking things around it?

What is the best way to raise the idle RPM easily, to keep the oil light
from coming on? a 50 or 100 RPM increase is enough to put it out. (and if
i light the highbeams (2x60 + 3x55 Watt) the rpms drop a little, making
the oil light steady instead of flickering)

Is the tiny stopscrew on the throttle valve arm the right place, or is
there some other place to look?

"Ronny Svedman" <uu.se> wrote in message
news:Update.UU.SE...
 

A heavier weight oil can help *if* the problem is loosening tolerances in
the engine.
 

Low viscosity oil helps the lifters pump up faster. As for the actual
pressure, a test might help, but it can be equally easy, as well as cheaper,
to simply change the sensor switch. These things are dirt cheap (<$10) and
are notorious for failing.
 

It's the clutch *throwout* bearing. Goes away when you press the clutch
because you're exerting pressure on it. When it fails, it is more likely to
fall apart and simply lie there - while you can't disengage the clutch. Not
a terrible problem if you can start the car in gear and drive home
clutchless.
 

Try the switch first. If it isn't that, chances are your oil pump is
getting worn out.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that)

On Mon, 5 Jan 2004, C.R. Krieger wrote:
 
 

There is a slight but unignorable, ominous, knocking sound at idle :-(
it goes away if i raise the idle RPM a little (so does the oil light).

I fear the main crank bearings might be worn out.. or the oil pump, as you
said.
 

will do that.
 

okidoky. that probably means it will get a lot louder before
failing. great =)
 

I kind of wonder.. What would happen if for some reason the oil filter
would clog up with goop? would that drop oil pressure because of
restricted flow or would it "just" mean the all the oil would bypass the
filter via some pressure valve? (and circulate unfiltered..)

Try 20W-50. With that kind of mileage... be happy.
May be the oil pump failing or just too much wear on bearings. If the oil
light came one while driving, that is not good. At idle not that much can
happen.




"Ronny Svedman" <uu.se> wrote in message
news:Update.UU.SE... 

Hello i´ve had the same problem with a mazda 626, and it was the oil pressure sensor, i replaced it, and have not seen the lamp light after the replacement.