Mitsubishi: 4G63T spun bearing?
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4G63T spun bearing?
Well,
I need to ASK a question this time...
The 1990 6-bolt 4G63T in my Summit GTX has done about 200,000 km, and under
acceleration blows quite a bit of oil smoke, meaning the rings are shot.
Needs valve stem seals too. Oil was pretty low, just on the bottom of the
dip stick, meaning there was about 1L left ie not run dry. I've had it that
low before.
Last night it was running fine, but this morning the engine rattled when I
tried to start.
Pulled off the rocker cover, and found one inlet lifter (the noisy one) was
not pumped up at all and the rocker was floating about under the cam. Put in
a good spare lifter, and the rocker was again tight on the cam.
Topped up the oil, tried to start, and got lots of valve clatter, the engine
ran like the timing was way off. There was no audible big end knock. Valve
clatter suggests no or little oil pressure is getting to the lifters. The
standard (Eclipse) oil pressure gauge shows normal.
Disabling the fuel and the starter spins the engine OK, no valve rattling or
knocking noises.
The cam timing SEEMS to be about right in that the pulley TDC mark and the
cam sprocket marks seem to line up on the right places. This suggests that
the hydraulic tensioner has not caused a cam timing problem.
With the plugs out, I can turn the main pulley with an 8" ratchet arm, till
it gets to a point that I just can't move it. Surely the valves springs are
not that tough? The starter spins the engine over smoothly, no audible
"hard" spots that would suggest a really jammed big end.
I know I have to take the sump off and have a look ($sob), and I was
planning full rebuild anyway.
What's the consensus? Spun bearing?
Stewart DIBBS
www.pixcl.com/lancerproject.htm
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Re: 4G63T spun bearing?
"Topped up the oil, tried to start, and got lots of valve clatter, the
engine
ran like the timing was way off. There was no audible big end knock. Valve
clatter suggests no or little oil pressure is getting to the lifters."
Your spare lifter has air in it. it will clatter and tick until it get
pumped up.
If you would like, I can point you to vendors who sell the 3rd generation
lifter cheap.
So , Stewart is it a set of Wiesco's on Eagle rods or Ross on Pauter's?
You should talk to Marco over at Magnus in Woodbridge.
Look into the light Stewart, DSMLink and an EVOIII 16G turbo are calling.
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Re: 4G63T spun bearing?
Not much technical to offer since the motor will need to be opened up. I do
agree with simpleton though, EVO motor. I think I would just rebuild your
current with the good stuff. Actually stock that project car of yours should
scoot...
Take care, L
"Stewart DIBBS" <com> wrote in message
news:ca...
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Re: 4G63T spun bearing?
"res0jhe2" <net> wrote in message
news:4twue.4044$..
Its actually a bit slower off the mark with the turbo than with a n/a 4G63
DOHC (first engine I used), though this is in part because its still got the
n/a exhaust system on it, which is 2 1/8" vs 2 1/4" stock turbo. I'll be
replacing it with a 2 1/2" all the way through at the same time I put in the
rear diff and get the AWD working. Its fine up to 5000rpm, then the small
pipes cause to much back pressure.
Once it gets in to 2nd, the turbo torque kicks in, and keeps pulling in 3rd,
4th and 5th. I've had it up to about 180kmh then ran out of road.
Stewart DIBBS
www.pixcl.com/lancerproject.htm
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Re: 4G63T spun bearing?
"Its actually a bit slower off the mark with the turbo than with a n/a 4G63
DOHC (first engine I used), though this is in part because its still got
the
n/a exhaust system on it, which is 2 1/8" vs 2 1/4" stock turbo. I'll be
replacing it with a 2 1/2" all the way <snip>."
Both OEM systems while durable and quiet, are horribly restrictive. On the
old 1G car I went from stock to a David Buschur 3" turbo-back system and
instantly that turbo would make boost like there was no tomorrow. Stewart,
2.5" is a pretty decent compromise between civility and performance. Bigger
is better but more rude, I run nothing but 3" and the drag guys are moving
to 3.5"
What Exhaust components are you using? Manifold, O2 housing etc...
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Re: 4G63T spun bearing?
First thing I'd do is check that valve. Watch it with the cover off and see
for sure if is moving. I've lost a rocker and it felt like bad timing,
albeit at a high RPM range. If you put a good/new lifter in there, it will
take a few minutes to pump up. It sounds really bad when you do that.
I doubt you spun a bearing with good oil pressure, so you may be seeing the
valve causing your problems. If you do have a ring problem, pull the plugs
and clean them. I've seen a bad idle with just bad valve seals (oil on
plugs). It takes a bit to burn off that oil. I've had stem seals so bad at
one time, that if you stalled the engine cold, the thing wouldn't start
until you cleaned the plugs.
--
Todd Honea
"Stewart DIBBS" <com> wrote in message
news:ca...
under
that
was
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engine
Valve
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Re: 4G63T spun bearing?
"simpleton" <net> wrote in message
news:com...
All standard parts. I could I suppose mill out the exhaust manifold and O2
housing, and put a 3" SS down pipe to a 3" cat, then 2.5" for the rest. It
not and will never be a drag car. (I'm 54 and past that). Mostly I just see
off the local Honda Civic wanna-be's with fart pipes (except for the guy
with the 98 Civic with turbo and NOX ...)
Anyone have some parts lying around?
Stewart DIBBS
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Re: 4G63T spun bearing?
"Anyone have some parts lying around?"
I sold off that stuff a few years back but allow me to advise you to look at
2G DSM exhaust manifolds and oxygen sensor
houings.http://www.vfaq.com/mods/exhman.html ,
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/porting-O2.html ,
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/porting-turbo.html ,
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/porting-exhman.html
EVOIII is better yet but a hard find at the junkyard. On the topic of cheap
OEM Mojo,
2G turbo pistons on your existing rods (w/ the small end reworked) raise
your static compression to 8.5:1
http://hometown.aol.com/rcm1061/myhomepage/auto.html
Have fun while you're in there.
"Stewart DIBBS" <com> wrote in message
news:ca...
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Still having problems...
Spent half today realigning the cam belt after my mistake trying to turn the
cam : it was 1 or 2 teeth off on the crank gear. Quite a bit less room to
work in the Summit than in an Eclipse, but its spot on now, including the
oil pump.
I have compression, oil presssure under the lifters, spark on all 4 (via
spark gun), fuel on the rail, power on the injector resistors. It should
start, but it won't even fire. I've no reason to believe that the ECU is not
firing the injectors. I've tried some oil in the cylinders, and got a
"sneeze" from the engine.
It too damm hot outside now, so I've cleaned up and repaired to the fridge
for an ale. Any suggestions to get this #@$*! started? More oil in the
cylinders to seal the rings?
Stewart DIBBS
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Problem identified, if not solved (sigh)
"Nobody U. Know" <com> wrote in message
news:MOJue.5065$ohiordc.rr.com...
Did a compression test ... zero on all four. Verified the cam belt
alignment, spot on. Had a close look at the intake valves, and all EIGHT are
depressed about 3mm, with the rockers floating around. Checked my spare head
.... not the same, valves are up and the rockers tight against the cam.
So I guess that when I started it the other day the cam belt jumped a tool
or two, and bent all the valves. All makes sense now. Lets hope the exhausts
are OK, but after 200,000 km, might need some (or all) new.
Oh well, I have no choice but do a full rebuild. <grin>
Stewart DIBBS
www.pixcl.com/lancerproject.htm
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