Toyota Trucks: 4-Runner 3VZ-4 Camshaft Timing Pulley Bolt

glacb wrote:
 
Gregg, they are CCW to loosen. And its a bear! We have a special "cam
holding tool" as a shop SST and I've boughten my own from one of the big
tool guys. These can be a bear. I doubt you'll be able to do it without
the SST. Why are you removing them? Headgasket, cam seal leak?

--





Inasmuch as the Democrats are complaining on how long the war is taking,
consider this:

It took less time to take Iraq than it took Janet Reno to take the
Branch Davidian compound. That was a 51-day operation.

It took less time to find Saddam's sons in Iraq than it took Hillary
Clinton to find the Rose Law Firm billing records.

It took less time for the 3rd Infantry Division and the Marines to
destroy the Medina Republican Guard than it took Teddy Kennedy to call
the police after his Oldsmobile sunk at Chappaquiddick.

It took less time to take Iraq than it took to count the votes in
Florida! TWICE!!!!!

Damn our military is GREAT!!

Thanks, i'm rebuilding the engine and had planned on taking the heads in for
a valve job. Gregg

"MDT Tech®" <com> wrote in message
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was 
clock-wise. 

"MDT Tech®" <com> wrote in message
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I can second that. I tried everything I could think of to remove my
camshaft pulleys (3VZ-E) without a SST but, in the end, I had to buy one.
The one I purchased was:
Schley Products
Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder
Part No. 96800

It was around $30 and did the job very nicely. Note that -- even with the
tool -- it took some serious muscle on a 1/2"-drive breaker bar to loosen
the bolts, which are torqued to 80 ft-lbs. In retrospect, I was kidding
myself trying to break these bolts without some sort of serious tool for
holding the pulley.

So, I would recommend getting the special tool and a nice breaker bar and
being prepared to pull like hell in a counter-clockwise direction.

Good Luck.

Luther

Thanks, i did get it off this morning by holding a 10 mm socket through the
pulley on one of the dust plate bolts and using a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar
with a 3 foot cheater bar.

The pistons and cylinders look pretty good although carboned up quite a lot.
I was wondering, would you bore them out and replace the pistons based on
the engine having 185,000 miles?

Gregg

"Luther" <net> wrote in message
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"glacb" <com> wrote in message
news:bs1Jb.2584$.. 
the 
bar 
lot. 

I'm impressed you got them off - I was tempted to try the same thing but was
afraid I would shear that 10mm bolt right off the dust cover.

My engine has 291,000 miles on it and I have not had to do anything with
regard to rings, pistons, etc. It does not burn or use oil. I think the
advice MDT Tech gave on another thread is pretty good which is to keep the
valve clearances adjusted properly and run it till it quits. Otherwise, you
will probably end up needing a valve job at some point.

Luther

glacb wrote:
 

Gregg, boring is spendy when you consider boring labor, all new pistons.
I bet you wont find a ridge at the top. Means I'd just hone and replace
rings.


--





Inasmuch as the Democrats are complaining on how long the war is taking,
consider this:

It took less time to take Iraq than it took Janet Reno to take the
Branch Davidian compound. That was a 51-day operation.

It took less time to find Saddam's sons in Iraq than it took Hillary
Clinton to find the Rose Law Firm billing records.

It took less time for the 3rd Infantry Division and the Marines to
destroy the Medina Republican Guard than it took Teddy Kennedy to call
the police after his Oldsmobile sunk at Chappaquiddick.

It took less time to take Iraq than it took to count the votes in
Florida! TWICE!!!!!

Damn our military is GREAT!!

What about main bearings, would you replace?


"MDT Tech®" <com> wrote in message
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the 
bar 
lot. 
on