Nissan Maxima: 105K Maint & Rear Brake Question - 2000 SE

As far as the rear calipers go, they screw back in, s-l-o-w-l-y, don't
want to tear the boot up. I didn't undo the bleed valve. Parking brake
cable needs to be disconnected to help get at/move the caliper.


EdT wrote: 


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Mike Walsh
mawalsh [] midsouth rr com

I'd change the trans fluid if it's an auto. I would have changed it once
before now too. You might want to change the coolant and bleed the
brakes if they still have the factory fluids in there. Do the plugs, the
back ones aren't that bad.

Mike wrote:
 

Thanks, I assume you screwed them back with a large pair of channel locks
or big screwdriver in the slots? If its not too hard I can do that and
save serious repair $$$. Might have to get the pads from Nissan though.

Trans fluid is on the agenda to do, I want to do the version where the suck
it all out so that it gets ALL the fluid changed not just that in the body
of the transmission. Coolant is the red permanent kind, does that still
need changing? No cooling problems noticed even in 100 degree weather in
traffic. I'll look at the back plugs, looks like you have to remove a lot
of the intake systems unless you get them from the bottom?

Use a pair of long needle nosed pliers. They seem to work great when I did
it on my 97 SE. One of the rear calipers was very hard to rotate so I
rented a rear caliper tool (free) at a parts store and that gave me more
leverage to rotate it in and out a few times to free it up.

"EdT" <rr.com> wrote in message
news:talkaboutautos.com... 

"EdT" <rr.com> wrote in message news:<talkaboutautos.com>... 

As others have already stated, the rear caliper pistons screw back
into the caliper. You can either open the bleeder or uncap the master
cylinder reservior - as you retract the piston the fluid has to either
come out of the system (via the bleeder) or air has to be pushed out
from the reservior to make room for the fluid. If you have ABS, I
would recommend opening the bleeder, so that the dirty fluid is not
pushed back up through the brake system.

If you don't open the bleeder or uncap the reservior before retracting
the front or rear pistons, you are adding a lot of internal pressure
on the brake lines/joints/master cylinder seals - and you can either
spring a leak or dislodge a seal... not a good idea.


Cheers,
Nirav
96 Max GLE, 106k

You have to take the ten millimeter bolt loost from the control arm to
get the caliper off. Buy the tool to screw the piston in asn as one
post already said you will have to screw it in slowly or you will tear
the dust boot. I bought the specialty tool and it works great. It has
a clamp portion that presses against the piston as the inside adapter
turns the piston clock-wise in. When you are done make sure that the
slots on the piston line up so the pin in the back of the brake pad fits
into it. To get the caliper off take both bolts out and, with your
hand, pull in and out to get the caliper loose and then pull it back to
remove it...

EdT wrote:
 

I changed the plugs at 88K and they needed it. On the back plugs it is
easy as the coils are just bolted on with a ten millimeter bolt. Pull
the coill off and unplug it to get room to get the wire boot out of the
hole and use a long extension to remove the plugs. The back three do
not have an access cover so they are easier in my opinion.

EdT wrote: